inNeedofHelp wrote:
Hi There,
Been reading up on quite a few threads on this forum, you all seem
like pretty helpful guys so thought I would post for some thoughts on
my current kitchen thinking.
We are going to be re-doing the whole kitchen complety so re-wire
required here, so I need to make sure we have planned it all correctly
:-)
Sockets
We are going to have all integrated appliances, and I have been
reading up on ways to wire up, FCU above worktops etc, we plan to
surface mount double sockets in the units adjacent to the appliances
to plug them into. This is to minimize all the switches we will
otherwise have above units. The switches to the appliances are then
accessible after moving a few tins of beans, so can be shut off
immediately in an emergency.
Nice idea.
I found places for soclkets and switches behind the units. If there is a
major problem I just kill the whole ring and fix..
Also part of this ring will be the sockets on the wall above worktops.
So on this ring we will have :-
4 dbl sockets for small appliances (ie toaster, kettle)
in cupboard sockets for Fridge/Freezer, Freezer, Dishwasher, washing
machine, Gas hob (power for sparker), Oven as it rating is Max Rating:
2.35 kW
Fuse Rating: 13 Amps(sparky told me can go on main ring and not need a
separate supply) and the extractor.
Will this be acceptable or should it be split into 2 circuits?
I prefer to lightly load rings, but it seems accepatble to me.
The boiler which is in kitchen has a separate radial circuit with one
socket at the end of it.
The lighting is where I have my major headache, currently we have one
very large strip light, infact looks like 2 stuck together, you should
see how long it takes to come one after switching switch!! The plan
for lighting is to
1) replace strip light with a none offense light, perhaps a four way
spot light.
2) Fluorescent tubes over wall cabinets for extra light
3) Under counter fluorescent lighting
4) Kitchen has a recess so we are lowering ceiling and putting
spotlights in there.
Good idea. Put in lots, and put in seperate wires for evertything, as
you may want to differentially swith or dim later on.
Now it is a flat I live in, so gaining access to lighting is tricky
and I think not a good idea to put any more on circuit, as all rooms
are on one circuit ( 6 light fittings). Also the wiring is a bit
peculiar, not anything I have read about! The power comes from CU,
into a metal box, in metal box, about 6 T & E wires are twisted
together, i.e. reds all twisted together etc. Then each wire goes to
the switch in each room and out the switch comes feed to light, so
switch off, cable would be dead. So the neutral cables in the light
switch boxes are twisted together and not in any connection.
Anyway we have a spare breaker in fuse box, so was wondering if it
would be a good idea to create a new light circuit for lights 2,3 and
4 in the kitchen. The under and over counter lighting is what I am
unsure of here, I would like a switch for the over and one for the
under and one for recess, ideally all in one grid switch to keep it
neat. The kitchen will be u shaped but has a gap at the top of the U
in units due to a window, so cannot just connect lights all the way
round, using the nice connection cables that you can get. The lights
will just be on the two opposite walls.
What is the best way to link up these fluorescent lights, and have
them controlled by one switch each, can I just start at one end
connect lights, then run a T&E to the lights at other side, putting
cable under floor, then end that set at other side of kitchen?
Bite teh bullet and fit yourself
- a cable from consumer unit to kichen for ALL lights.
- a decent juncton box in teh wall or a cupboard or something
- separate wires from this to every independently controlled light
- as few cables (live/switched live pairs?) from this to the grid switch
as is possible. That is don't carry either the lighting wores or any
netrlas to teh switch if its big. Do all the neutral commoning and earth
commoning in the junction box.
I should have done his in my kitchen, and didn't, and the 3 way switch
is a rats nest as a result.
-
e Thanks for any advice, and cries of NO DON'T DO IT ;-) Rather that,
than get blown across the room 