First, check to see if there is a rectifier diode shorted which may have
caused the capacitor to burst. Next if the capacitor caused the board to
change color then you have electrolyte all over the PC board causing
current leakage. Try cleaning with strong alcohol, dry it and then check
for corroded solder connections. If it still won't work, its likely
trashed.

Larry B wrote:

We love our RR-10 and are the original owners (since 1979). Chromed out
with stainless interior and digital touchpad. I do have a service manual but
it does not go into detail on the digital module. The digital module in this
particular model was made by Essex.

Last weekend, someone used it (not personally witnessed) and the digital
module (Touchmatic II) went dead. I don't know what mortal code they entered
on the touchpad but it is truly dead. I have a rusty old RR-10 in the garage
for parts. So, I replaced the tube thermal cutout switch (which was open)
and the digital module. The rusty digital module works great but has a poor
Wife Acceptance Factor. Unfortunately, the original module is still dead. As
a further clue, when the the connector plug for the module is plugged in,
the buzzer should chirp. The original doesn't even chirp.

I took it apart and found a cap that had caused the underside of the PC
board to turn color so I replaced it. I also cleaned to the contacts on an
unenclosed relay, too. Still dead. Since a new digital module is $170 I was
hoping to get some hints as to what would be the most likely part(s) at
fault. Since whatever happened took out the thermal cutout sw, I thought
there may be some kind of deductive logic that could be applied here.

Thanks for any and all insights,

Lar





--
Joe Leikhim K4SAT
"The RFI-EMI-GUY"

The Lost Deep Thoughts By: Jack Handey
Before a mad scientist goes mad, there's probably a time
when he's only partially mad. And this is the time when he's
going to throw his best parties.