4 dbl sockets for small appliances (ie toaster, kettle)
in cupboard sockets for Fridge/Freezer, Freezer, Dishwasher, washing
machine, Gas hob (power for sparker), Oven as it rating is Max Rating:
2.35 kW
Fuse Rating: 13 Amps(sparky told me can go on main ring and not need a
separate supply) and the extractor.
Will this be acceptable or should it be split into 2 circuits?
Well, I would not be happy having all this on one circuit, even a 32A ring.
Also, it doesn't allow for RCD protection.
I would at least divide into 2 circuits.
1. NOT RCD protected for fridge/freezer/dishwasher/washing machine/oven/hob.
2. RCD protected for everything else.
Personally, in a similar situation I have 3 circuits.
1. 16A MCB radial for fridge/freezer only.
2. 32A MCB radial for washing machine/dishwasher/tumble dryer.
3. 32A RCBO ring for sockets and the oven.
There's no particular reason to have the oven on the RCBO circuit, except
that it is actually now quite underloaded, so has plenty of spare capacity.
The oven is (or at least will be) only the 2nd oven in the cooker. The main
oven and grill is gas. I prefer to have the fridge on a separate circuit to
avoid the consequences of the circuit tripping. At least if it trips, we
know it was the freezer or associated wiring at fault, not some fault
elsewhere.
The lighting is where I have my major headache, currently we have one
very large strip light, infact looks like 2 stuck together, you should
see how long it takes to come one after switching switch!! The plan
for lighting is to
1) replace strip light with a none offense light, perhaps a four way
spot light.
2) Fluorescent tubes over wall cabinets for extra light
3) Under counter fluorescent lighting
4) Kitchen has a recess so we are lowering ceiling and putting
spotlights in there.
Just avoid the spotlights, as they are inefficient. I've got a couple of
flush fittings in the ceiling, which take CFLs and underpelmet fluorescents.
This is plenty of light. Make sure they are switched separately from the
ceiling lighting.
Now it is a flat I live in, so gaining access to lighting is tricky
and I think not a good idea to put any more on circuit, as all rooms
are on one circuit ( 6 light fittings). Also the wiring is a bit
peculiar, not anything I have read about! The power comes from CU,
into a metal box, in metal box, about 6 T & E wires are twisted
together, i.e. reds all twisted together etc. Then each wire goes to
the switch in each room and out the switch comes feed to light, so
switch off, cable would be dead. So the neutral cables in the light
switch boxes are twisted together and not in any connection.
All sounds fine, apart from the twisting together. It is perfectly
acceptable in a circuit design sense, it is just that the connections are
insufficiently secure.
Anyway we have a spare breaker in fuse box, so was wondering if it
would be a good idea to create a new light circuit for lights 2,3 and
4 in the kitchen. The under and over counter lighting is what I am
unsure of here, I would like a switch for the over and one for the
under and one for recess, ideally all in one grid switch to keep it
neat. The kitchen will be u shaped but has a gap at the top of the U
in units due to a window, so cannot just connect lights all the way
round, using the nice connection cables that you can get. The lights
will just be on the two opposite walls.
Don't worry about providing a new light circuit until you've added up all
the usage on your current one. Also, if you avoid SES or SBS fittings and
only have standard light fittings (plus any LV halogens/fluorescents etc),
then you can usually increase the MCB to 10A.
What is the best way to link up these fluorescent lights, and have
them controlled by one switch each, can I just start at one end
connect lights, then run a T&E to the lights at other side, putting
cable under floor, then end that set at other side of kitchen?
Yes, just connect them all together with T&E and connect that T&E to the
light switch, assuming you will maintain the method of looping the neutral
at the switch.
In some ways, as you are using light switch looping and grid switches,
consider using 20A DP switch modules and having DP switching on your light
circuits. That will be slightly safer, especially in the event of using ES
fittings.
Christian.
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