Gary,
No matter what the 'purists' say . . . I like water-based poly for finishing
a 'working' surface, like your kitchen table. It's both hard and relatively
impervious to liquids & damage.

Agreed, for a faster 'dead flat' & smooth surface, you should have filled
the pores first. However, that type of surface is not a necessity but more
of a cosmetic choice. To fill the existing grain with the poly, think about
6 coats . . . as a start. {Bare in mind that I consider 6 coats of varnish,
etc. as normal !!}. Sand with progressively finer grits between coats. Use
220 for the first AND second, then 320, 400, and 600.

Note, that after the 2nd or 3rd coat the surface is sealed. Even if you see
the little 'dimples' of the pores, they have sufficient finish in them to
repel spills. Therefore, if you can live with the 'look', and still have it
after 6 coats . . . don't worry about it.

Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop

"Gary Fritz" wrote in message
...
I just used a water-based polyurethane for the first time. (I'm no
woodworking expert. The last time I refinished anything was my
grandma's old oak table, 20 years ago. Now it's time to refinish it
and I'm using water-based this time.)

SNIP
I sanded lightly with 220 grit and applied 2nd & 3rd coats.

It looks pretty good now. . . .I think I might sand it again and put a few
more coats on --
It seems to me the water poly isn't filling in the open oak grain . . .
This is a kitchen/dining table that gets plenty of use every day, including
lots of spills from my 7-yr-old. I
want to make sure the wood is appropriately protected from spills and
is easy to clean up. Should I keep putting on 4th, 5th, ? coats