peter wrote:
I have done quite a lot of spalted maple as you can see he
http://www.peterhyde.bravehost.com/
I found that you need a lot of speed once it is round.

excellent turning peter. i like turning this stuff too. i agree with the need
for speed here, but with some added steps. i do the outside to shape, then
wrap with flat twine like this stuff:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=32004&categor
y=1,43456,43391
(watch for line wrap)
when i hollow. this seems to hold things in the same place if it decides to
blow up(or out).


Best results came from a sharp skew on the outside and a Termite followed by a
light touch with a scraper on the inside.

i like and use a spindle gouge on the outside tho i'm sure we probably use the
same "shear cut" to do the work. for hollowing i use a forstner bit to clear a
center hole, and various scrapers to finish cutting. do you think you would
buy the termite for this again? i would love something faster and cleaner to
hollow with.

Sanding it a problem because
the soft areas will sand quicker than the hard and you end up with
some very lumpy out of round turnings.

this is definitely the second biggest problem. the first, imho, is the blank
exploding while you turn. these spalted things rarely have much integrity.


I used lacquer as a finish and
found after many coats I could do some light sanding.

I have tried soaking in a 50/50 solution of white glue/water after rough
hollowing. This worked ok, but the glue tends to block the oil finish I like
to use€¦go figure.


I polished with pumice and rottenstone and then waxed.

Now then I am currently using Liquid Dish soap (Diluted 50%) I leave
the spalted wood in it for a few weeks and found it then turns almost
like fresh wood. Trouble is the LDD soaks right through the blank and
continues to foam as you are cutting. Sanding means using wet and dry
automotive sandpaper but you get a really smooth finish. I only go to
600 grit. The problem is the wood is so full of soap it will not take
a finish. I am using waterbased poly at the moment but it takes weeks
to dry so I am also trying to wash out the soap with water baths and
then allow to dry in a paper bag. I don't think cracking or warping
will be a problem as the wood is already past seasoned and in fact is
rotting.

Thanks for this. I had thought of trying ldd, as I like it for green turning.
I guess I'll pass tho. I sometimes soak in a clear oil until the piece is
full and allow to dry, and do this until the oil completely fills the grain.
Allow to dry and you'll find the oil will consolidate the spalted grain and
allow light turning and sanding. The keys here are "completely fill" and
"allow to dry. This does change the color, as any oil finish will, and might
not be acceptable on light woods, like aspen. I've never used any water based
finishes so don't know if they would work the same.

Also make sure which ever method you use you zap the piece
for a few seconds in the microwave to kill any wood borers that might
be lurking. Hope this helps
Peter hyde

oh come now peter, I prefer mine raw, with a little cocktail sauce. Nothing
beats a big juicy wood borer flying out and hitting my face shield. Yum!!