Greg G. wrote in message . ..
George said:

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Best tool for this is the right-angle gouge - a ring tool like the Termite.
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I wouldn't try to soften the wood with anything. Might try to consolidate
it with some shellac or lacquer, CA or one of the commercial products so it
doesn't peck out. Water'd have a tendency to foster tearing.

Thanks, I'll try again. The problem is, this wood doesn't want to cut
and curl, it wants to chip out.

I've looked at the Termite, but wasn't sure it was worth a try.

Greg
I have done quite a lot of spalted maple as you can see he
http://www.peterhyde.bravehost.com/
I found that you need a lot of speed once it is round. Best results
came from a sharp skew on the outside and a Termite followed by a
light touch with a scraper on the inside. Sanding it a problem because
the soft areas will sand quicker than the hard and you end up with
some very lumpy out of round turnings. I used lacquer as a finish and
found after many coats I could do some light sanding. I polished with
pumice and rottenstone and then waxed.
Now then I am currently using Liquid Dish soap (Diluted 50%) I leave
the spalted wood in it for a few weeks and found it then turns almost
like fresh wood. Trouble is the LDD soaks right through the blank and
continues to foam as you are cutting. Sanding means using wet and dry
automotive sandpaper but you get a really smooth finish. I only go to
600 grit. The problem is the wood is so full of soap it will not take
a finish. I am using waterbased poly at the moment but it takes weeks
to dry so I am also trying to wash out the soap with water baths and
then allow to dry in a paper bag. I don't think cracking or warping
will be a problem as the wood is already past seasoned and in fact is
rotting. Also make sure which ever method you use you zap the piece
for a few seconds in the microwave to kill any wood borers that might
be lurking.
Hope this helps
Peter hyde