On Tue, 26 Oct 2004 00:27:25 +0100, "Gerry"
wrote:

Thank you all for your useful ideas - that will work - I am only about 30
feet from the end of the house - I hadn't thought of using the main system.

Slán
Gerry


You're welcome.

Do note the point on separating the systems with the heat exchanger,
though, and don't be tempted just to add it in. This is to avoid
compromising the main system if something bad happens to the outside
one.

I used a GEA Ecobraze stainless steel heat exchanger Model 18
www.gea-ecobraze.com

I guess that the UK office GEA Ecoflex +44 1909 551 107 covers Ireland
and could point you to a distributor, Otherwise, there are some UK
suppliers like DPS.

For the building to building ducting , I based the design on something
I found in a design note in the Northern Ireland Building Regulations.
I can send you a copy as a Word or PDF file if you drop me an email.

One thing to watch is the overall pipe length and the amount of heat
required in the building. Calculate the building requirement first
using a heat loss program (e.g. Myson or Barlo radiators) and work out
the water flow. I didn;t need a lot of heat, so 22mm was OK, and the
pipe runs are similar to yours.

I put the heating pressure vessel, filling loop and pump all in the
workshop and then the only components of the secondary loop in the
house are the heat exchanger and flow switch. You can do the rest
of the design using Ed Sirett's sealed system FAQ and treating the
heat exchanger as the "boiler".

One reason for the flow switch arrangement is that I wanted to have a
separate zone for the heat exchanger so that I could have the boiler
heat it separately if I like but also that I didn't need to run an
electrical control circuit between the buildings. Workshop thermostat
runs the pump, flow switch in house operates and zone valve opens..
I could have used a wireless thermostat and put the receiver indoors I
suppose, but I wasn't confident of the operating range.



..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl