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Default Plastering - any tips?

On Sat, 7 Feb 2004 18:57:03 -0000, "Rob Nicholson"
wrote:

Renovation of the bathroom continues apace - the end is in sight!

Part of the renovation has been to extend the bathroom into the bedroom by
about a foot in order to fit a full-size bath. This has created an alcove
constructed as a stud wall covered in Wickes plasterboard.

The majority of the surfaces are going to be tiled so don't have to be made
particularly "good". Except the ceiling of the alcove which, like the main
ceiling, I'm considering painting.

Therefore, an area of about 1.5m x 0.5m needs plastering. I've done some
bonding plasterwork but this is the first time I'm going to attempt
finishing plaster. I've bought a bag of Wickes universal finishing plaster.

Anyone got any tips for this job?

o Should I try and make the mix quite thick as it's been applied to an
upside down surface?
o I was just going to treat the plasterboard with PVC glue - is this
adequate?
o As it's just a shim over the plasterboard that's required to hide the
gaps, it can be a pretty thin layer - ok?
o How long does a thin layer like this take to dry?

Thanks, Rob.

I've cut and pasted this reply to a previous post as I'm sure the
original poster wouldn't mind.

"If you've never tried it, don't touch the room. Get another sheet of
plasterboard, some new multifinish or plasterboard plaster (as someone
says, make sure it's fresh- the stuff sets in minutes if it's old and
has to all come off again) and have a crack on the spare plasterboard.
Make the mix up quite runny- I typically get a bucket of water and a
drill-based mixer and add plaster until it's the consistency of
whipped cream.
A guy who used to do skimming for us told me once a common error is to
make the mix too dry, and it becomes more difficult to work. Prepare
the surface either by washing (to make wet) or PVAing (to seal) and
then apply the plaster. The first challenge, particularly overhead, is
to stop the stuff falling straight off again having not stuck to the
surface

Assuming you get it all on, make reasonably smooth with the trowel and
leave for a while. 10-20 minutes. It should now be firm but not set
and you can use a wet trowel to ontinue smoothing the surface as far
as necessary. Do it long enough and the final result (after drying)
feels absolutely smooth with no grittiness.

After it's dry, look at an angle and see all the lumps you thought
you'd smoothed out. If you're happy with the result, have a crack at
the walls, one at a time. Make sure all the nails in the plasterboard
are galvanised or otherwise rustproof, otherwise the heads will rust
and expand and circles of plaster will pop off a few months down the
line. If you're not happy, try it again- it improves with practise and
you're better off wasting plasterboard
that isn't on the wall.

--
Dr. Craig Graham, Software Engineer
Advanced Analysis and Integration Limited, UK. http://www.aail.co.uk/"


Mark S.