Kibo informs me that "David Sewell"
stated that:

I recall servicing GEC brand tv's many years ago, and they had double-sided
print, and they were a bit of a pain. That was a cinch compared to a
motherboard!!

Yep.

What made me think of a high power iron was because of
something I read in a forum about the solder on a motherboard being of a
higher melting point than normal.

That's incorrect. The reason it seems that way is because motherboards
have huge ground & power planes on their own layers within the PCB,
which tend to act as heatsinks when you attempt to solder/desolder any
pins that connect to power or ground. Consequently, a light duty iron
will lose so much heat to the planes that the joint won't heat up enough
to melt the solder all the way through. Ideally, you need to use a
temperature-controlled iron with a heavy tip (I use a traditional,
ultra-reliable Weller TCP station myself, & strongly recommend them). If
you don't have access to a real iron like that, the next best thing is
to use a heavier standard iron - perhaps 30-40W or so - but you'll need
to be ultra careful not to damage the pads or cook the the surrounding
parts.

I had already tried an ordinary Antex
25watt iron and braid but it did not seem to be melting the solder - then
again the thing is so small my old eyes may have been deceiving me! Never
thought of cutting the cap itself. What sort of tool do you recommend and
do you mean the part of the cap as close as possible to the wire end?

The standard tool is a small pair of side-cutters, but I usually remove
electros by heating both pads with a blob of solder covering both, &
*gently* wiggling out the cap at the same time. (If a gentle touch
doesn't move the legs, the joints aren't yet hot enough - *do not* force
them, or you'll destroy the through-hole plating!)
Use whichever method you find easiest, with care, either will do the job
correctly.

--
W
. | ,. w , "Some people are alive only because
\|/ \|/ it is illegal to kill them." Perna condita delenda est
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