Instead of cutting 1 leg off, why not use the spacers sticking out from the
wall. You will need more spacers ie 3 for every joint but it will be quicker
than cuting a leg off flush. You can then pull the spacers out once the
adhesive has dried which supposedly makes grouting easier

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"Essjay001" wrote in message
...
John wrote:
SWMBO has asked me to tile the kitchen. No problem there but the
tiles she wants are oblong (approx 6" x 3") and she wants it to look
like a brick wall effect, i.e. each row moved over half a tile. Has
anybody any tips or advice on how best to acheive this? Can you get
" T " shaped spacers or do I have to cut one leg off of the normal "
+ " ones? Presumably this would take longer than 'normal' tiling as
each row would have to be laid out individually instead of tiling
normally with standard spacers.

I hope that makes sense, it does to me.

I did that with white/grey streaked 8 x 6's topped off with dark blue
candy
twist edges. The end result looked really good. I did however only tile
from
the top of the upstand up three rows and round the kitchen worktops 27
feet,
missing out the windows on the way. I turned 4 on their ends to tile up
into
the cooker hood recess.

I would suggest you decide what you are going to do with your switches and
sockets before you start. Either flush mount them or top mount them in
plastic boxes. I didn't I went for the tile around them option and wish I
hadn't which means they are a permanent fixture in the tiles. Doh!

Find out, using a straight edge, if there are any high/low spots on the
wall
and dress these up/down as required. It doesnt have to be perfect. There
is
only one join that is slightly stepped by les than 1 mm, but out of 140+
tiles, I consider that to be acceptable, I can live with it!

Spacers? My tiles were made with small lugs on two edges so spacers are
not
necessary (makes the job a whole lot easier)

Any help?

Steve R