Hi,

Before installing wooden fence posts it's best to soak the end that
will be buried plus about 12" above that in a copper napthanate
preserver such as Cupriol Green, following the recommended rate for
below ground use.

Most pressure treated wood is treated while the wood is still 'green'
so the treatment doesn't penetrate much further than the surface. Plus
pressure vessels don't come cheap so the wood doesn't stay in for
long. This which is why they recommend treating the ends of cut wood.

If you're lucky you might get away with reusing the concrete for the
new posts as they are. I reckon concrete is a bit OTT, all you need is
to spread the load from the post to the surrounding soil so large and
small rubble would work just as well, even with metposts.

hope this helps,
Pete.

On 5 Feb 2004 01:46:09 -0800, (Mortimer) wrote:

I common with many others I expect, my garden fence posts have rotted
at ground level and snapped.Over the years I have tried various things
such as hammering angle iron as close as possible into ground next to
posts and screwing good section to those. Also tried meta-posts in a
couple of places - work for some months then next high winds and
everything is moving around again. The posts were originally set into
quite large concrete blocks/balls so my next idea is to remove the
posts and panels,clear the tops of the concrete and using a kango
hammer open up the square hole in the concrete where the post has
rotted away to about twice its' size now.When holes opened up will
drop in new posts - will modern pressure treated ones be resistant to
rot? Fill in the gap with new concrete ensuring posts are vertical and
job done! Will a kango hammer be OK for this kind of job? I presume I
can hire one for a weekend. This plan is an alternative to having the
whole job done professionally as that could be expensive.