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George
 
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Since so many varnishes and "Danish" oils also have a tung oil component,
you are in no way limiting yourself by using only tung now. A solvent
clean and varnish application is possible anytime in the future.

That said, I think that there are two components to finish penetration or
adhesion, one for polar, one for nonpolar. The fibers are made to _hold_
water by adsorption, but allow oil to fill the spaces. You may get some
unwelcome effects from not using a barrier finish in such a wet environment.

"jtpr" wrote in message
...
Now you guys have me doubting myself...

I'm finishing up a small (~30"x24") cabinet for a bathroom. It has a

maple
case with cherry trim with a frosted glass door framed in cherry. The
shelves will be maple. I was going to finish this with tung oil. It will
be used to hold toiletry type stuff in the bathroom so it might get
occasional water sprayed or splashed on it. Do you think I would be better
off with a poly? I want to retain the original "look" of the wood, just
bring out the grain and give it a bit of a polish. If I do the tung oil

and
want to change later to another finish, is that possible?

I want it to look somewhat impressive, it's really my first project, so I
need to impress somebody...;+}
--
-Jim
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If you want to reply by email its -- ryan at jimryan dot com
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"patriarch astDOTnet" patriarch wrote in message
.17...
(Fred the Red Shirt) wrote in
om:

MikeG wrote in message
news.com...

snip

3 - Since tung oil is meant to soak into the wood and varnish seals
the wood and forms a film finish over the wood putting the oil on top
of the varnish would be an exercise in futility.

Oddly enough I've been told some folks use oil over shellac and like
the results. I haven't tried it myself.


But shellac AFTER oil can be a nice treatment. Rubbed out with a nice

wax,
after curing, and you get a pleasing finish. Not 'poly-tough', but nice
for many applications not subject to heavy use.

Patriarch