While I saw a seasoned installer affix 18 gauge brad nails because I
guess that is much faster. Are there better methods
and what are they?

Face nail anything you can't blind nail, and fill with a matching color.
Since they are on the perimeter of the floor, it's hardly noticed (if at
all).

Another question is, what tool to use to cut off the 3/4" vertical gap at
the bottom of door trim so the hardwood strip can squeeze in under
the trim?

Use a flush cutting saw (google it). Lay a piece of floor stock on the floor
next to the jamb to use as a guide when using the saw. IOW, you put the
flush saw on top of the floor stock as a gauge to cut the jamb at the
correct height.

--Mike



"ississauga" wrote in message
om...
I have started installing 3/4" hardwood for my customers on a daily
basis.

Since the first and last boards cannot be stapled with the big angular
machines like the Bostitch MIIIFS how do you do this? Manuals I read
say nail to the face of the hardwood strip and countersinking the
nails/screws. While I saw a seasoned installer affix 18 gauge brad
nails because I guess that is much faster. Are there better methods
and what are they?

One method I tried is to put brad nails to the tongue. But when I try
to put 18 ga brads to the tongue the brads only go in properly half
the time, rest of the brads don't go in all the way.

Another question is, what tool to use to cut off the 3/4" vertical gap
at the bottom of door trim so the hardwood strip can squeeze in under
the trim?