On 10 Oct 2004 11:01:32 GMT, Garry Collins
wrote:

Anybody got a inch by inch explanation for using a jointer?

There's any number of them in Google
http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticle...justment.shtml

Sounds like this could be a setup and adjustment problem, as much as
operator technique.

I seem to get either concaveor convex and never straight.

UNPLUG !

How's the adjustment of the outfeed table ?

Check that the table is adjustable - ie the things that move, move,
and the things that shouldn't wobble don't.

Check that the tables are coplanar. Wind both tables up above the
cutter head and then adjust until they're at an equal height. Using
the biggest and heaviest straightedge you can muster, they should then
be perfectly flat relative to each other (you'll need to get the
height spot on).

Using a dial gauge on a magnetic stand, check the cutter head
adjustment. Check they're equal in height along their length, and
between knives. Also check that the head axis is parallel to the table
surface - this is sometimes best measured by measuring from the head,
not the knives.

If you don't have a dial gauge, you can set the knives up with just a
straightedge. It's hard to check the cutter axis / table alignment
though.

Then (and this is probably your problem), set the outfeed table to be
exactly level with the knives.

Set the infeed table level with the knives, and adjust the datum
pointer (if you have one). Set it a bit lower and try some trial cuts.


I try to balance the force on the incomming until there is enough on the
out and then transfer to that.

Not a bad start. Remember the safety stuff about never passing a hand
over the cutter head too.

An hour or two sawing plywood into push blocks wouldn't be wasted. I
find that thin polythene foam sheet (laminate floor underlay) makes a
good friction surface for underneath. Unlike the black neoprene foam,
it doesn't wear and shed black dust.


--
Smert' spamionam