"G&M" wrote in message
...
"Dave Jones" wrote in message
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"MGA" wrote in message
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Dear all,
as part of my garage conversion I have been asked by the building
control
officer to fix studs to the wall, add insulation, a vapour barrier and
plasterboard. It's a single brick wall and it has piers every 1.5
meters
more or less. That means that I need to get quite deep studs to
provide
an
even surface for the plasterboard. I have the battens ready, they are
15
by
5 centimetres, but being so deep, what is the best way to fix them to
the
wall?
I can't just screw them because I can't find screws long enough. I've
thought about fixing thinner studs to the wall horizontally and them
skew
nail the studs to them vertically. Another option would be to fix them
using
some kind of metal brackets.
What is the best way to do this?
Thanks in advance!
MGA
Would it not be easier to add an internal block wall?
Would still need insulation between the walls to meet part L.
How tall is the ceiling and is it strong enough to support the structure
(with the floor of course) and don't bother attaching to the wall ?
As for long screws, B&Q sell them up to 8 inches (German brand I can't
remember name of)
I don't know about regulations in your jurisdictions in the UK; but here a
first thought was to hire one of those 'impact guns' (made by Hilti or
Ramset etc.) that explosively fire a nail through the wood stud into the
wall behind. I've seen attachments to half inch thick steel, poured concrete
walls and concrete floors etc ...... etc. To brick I'm not sure about?.
Presumably you select the type of cartridge and the length of the fasteners
to suit the job also taking into account the depth of penetration required.
Here I would head for a tool rental shop and get their advice, maybe even
practice a couple of times. Understand that you must keep face of gun
absolutely flat on the work surface to avoid the 'nail' ricocheting off at
an angle and use other sensible safety precautions. Perhaps the occasional
attachments might not work first time; perhaps hitting a weak section of
mortar or a 'spall' in a brick and not holding. There are many types of
nails, studs, threaded rod fasteners available. I've seen Ramsets used
safely in a working equipment area. Each of your wooden upright studs
probably needs, say four such fasteners.
Renting such a gun costs the equivalent of about ten quid a day; the
explosive cartridges say 50 pee each and screw fasteners 25 to 50 pee each.
However I've just called a knowledgeable local rental shop and they advise
not using the ramset method because brick here (where brick is rarely, if
ever used, except for a decorative none load bearing facing or internal
chimneys, in residential construction) even new, is generally too
unreliable; especially if any weight such as shelves is to be mounted on the
walls. They suggest to drill holes into the brick using a carbide tipped
drill; each expanding fastener would cost somewhere between 50 cents and
$2.00 Can.(Roughly say 50 to 80 pence and then a long screw/bolt through the
wood stud into the fastener. I used four of the small expanding fasteners to
mount an external TV antenna on a chimney in windy Liverpool UK in the 1950s
and it stayed there for at least ten years.
I would also investigate using construction adhesive, maybe in addition to
the drilled fasteners. Even if the wall is a little uneven small wedges
and/blocks could be used and that modern stuff after a minute or two holds
like the dickens. (I've even used it on a slide in truck camper subject to
twisting and road vibration with great results.
The studding and plaster board will reduce the usable space a bit; I've seen
some of those smaller UK garages! So would suggest against building another
entire wall inside the existing one. If affordable, perhaps use plywood for
the lower two or four foot portion of the wall instead of plasterboard cos.
it resists damage?
Two (Canadian) cents from here. Ex-scouser.
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