Brian,
I would use oil to bring out the grain (at least three coats), let the
oil harden for a week, and then put on a couple of coats of poly.

Oil is wipe on to saturate surface, let it soak in for 15-30 minutes,
add some more to hit the dry spots, another 15 minutes and then wipe
off. Don't keep the oily rags laying around - they are a fire hazard.
The poly you can spray on if you prefer or there are some decent wipe
on polys that will work ok. The poly can be oil or water based
depending on your preferences.

For a table top I would use Danish oil rather than tung. Use the poly
to add sheen and good protection, the oil adds depth.

On Thu, 7 Oct 2004 11:45:33 -0400, "B Man" wrote:

The last few weeks I've been using "playing around" with Minwax Tung Oil.
I've previously used the combination Tung Oil and Teak Oil for a low luster
finish, but recently I've used straight Tung Oil on some boxes I've made.
In terms of looks, the cherry and english walnut turn out excellent after
just 3 - 4 coats.

I have two questions though - how durable is it? Would Tung Oil be ok for a
cherry dining room table I thinking about? How is it for turnings - can you
lathe-apply the finish?

Can it be sprayed on with an HVLP sprayer?

You thoughts would be appreciated.


Brian


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