The reason they put resins in oils to make varnishes is to give them
durability. On their own they're repairable, but not durable.

If you like tung, you may apply it to turnings, though it will sink in as
well when applied on a static piece, without messing you or the walls.
After it seems dry, at the point you would normally wipe, you might want to
fire up the rotation and apply some rag friction heat to pick the excess up,
else it tends to cure slowly, especially in cool or damp circumstances.


"B Man" wrote in message
...
The last few weeks I've been using "playing around" with Minwax Tung Oil.
I've previously used the combination Tung Oil and Teak Oil for a low
luster
finish, but recently I've used straight Tung Oil on some boxes I've made.
In terms of looks, the cherry and english walnut turn out excellent after
just 3 - 4 coats.

I have two questions though - how durable is it? Would Tung Oil be ok for
a
cherry dining room table I thinking about? How is it for turnings - can
you
lathe-apply the finish?

Can it be sprayed on with an HVLP sprayer?

You thoughts would be appreciated.


Brian