Long-time RAS user that has since moved on to TS for ripping...make sure the
blade is exactly in plane with the fence, if in doubt make sure to err on
the board leaving the fence after it clears the blade (i.e. a "pinch"
between the blade and fence will get your heart going), be sure to use the
kick-back prawls, wear those eye protection things and whatever you do, stay
clear of the path that the board will want to take if something isn't
exactly right (that would be in line with the path you are feeding it from).

I used the RAS as my only major tool for quite a few years and still think
it is the most versatile tool made, you just have to keep it "tuned". The
major PITA with the tool results from its versatility, too many angles to
play with, every change in one potentially screwing up all the others.
Recognize that flaw and pay more attention to safety than most other tools
and you'll have some fun.


"Doug Winterburn" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 06 Oct 2004 08:36:58 -0700, Doug Winterburn wrote:

On Wed, 06 Oct 2004 14:43:54 +0000, mac davis wrote:


My question is in ripping... how is this handled in relation to the
fence, as in moving it (adding or replacing filler strips) to adjust
your cut

First and most important - don't kerf the table. Apply a 1/4"
sacrificial
top to the front table and make the "standard kerfs" in this. The
standard kerfs include a 90 degree crosscut, a 45 degree bevel, a 45
degree miter and inrip and outrip troughs for ripping. The troughs
should
be made by pulling the motor all the way to the end of the arm, locking
it
on the arm and rotating the motor while the saw is running. The motor is
then unlocked and pushed slowly to the fence for the inrip trough and
pushed in to the start of the inrip trough when cutting the outrip
trough.
The Powr-Kraft sam troughs don't aligh, but many saws do. Here's a link
to a picture of a sacrificial ply top with the standard kerfs on a
Powr-Kraft RAS:

http://www.winterburn.net/doug/pictures/woodworking/ras_3.jpg

Also notice that all adjustments (except bevel) can be made without
raising/lowering the arm. For miter cut(s), move the arm with the motor
behind the fence. For rip cuts, pull the motor all the way to the end of
the arm, lock, rotate for inrip/outrip, unlock the motor and move to the
desired rip width and lock on the arm. For wider rips, use the outrip
position and move the fence all the way back. you may also want to place
a properly sized piece of 1/4" ply over the back table pieces to bring
them level with the front sacricial top.

-Doug


--
"It has been a source of great pain to me to have met with so many among
[my] opponents who had not the liberality to distinguish between
political and social opposition; who transferred at once to the person,
the hatred they bore to his political opinions." --Thomas Jefferson