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PJO
 
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Default Burglar Alarm - Repair or Replace ?

There goes fatty wallop again.

This time though he may be right and if you have removed the sensor you'll
need to short out the wires as he suggests. If the sensor is removed
permanent then remove that sensors wiring from the panel terminals and use
two wire links to give the necessary shorts.

The bit the fatty didn't mention is that many M&W panels had a small reset
button on the PCB and that may need to be pressed. Some also had a reset
sequence which was Reset button + zone omit button at the same time.

These panels are very old and your guess of 1983 is quite right. There were
very good kit though and M&W sold thousands of them. If you get it working
and providing the electronics don't pack up it'll last a good while yet. The
main problem likely is mechanical failure of the key switch as opposed to
something electronic.




"BigWallop" wrote in message
...

"Bjorn" wrote in message
om...
I recently moved in to a house which has an existing burglar alarm.
The alarm control unit is a white box with 'CPD2' and 'conforms to
BS4737' printed on it. It is key operated with 3 positions - Set, Day
and Test. It has lights for 'Supply Fault', 'Tamper', 'Entry/Exit',
'Zone 1' and 'Zone2' and a button marked 'Omit Zone 2'. Inside the
main circuit board is marked 'Munford & White c1983'.

I have never used it, but there are sensors on the front and back
door, ground floor interior doors, ground floor windows and motion
sensors in 2 rooms (one of which I have removed). I disconnected 1 of
the motion sensors and ever since the 'Tamper' light on the alarm has
come on and I cannot set the alarm. I have tried my own amatuer
attempts to 'Reset' the alarm, unsuccessfully. I have also tried to
find someone to come and fix it. So far, have only found people who
will charge £150 plus just to have a look, not guaranteeing success,
or wanting to sell me a new alarm and service contract.

I want to start using an alarm. The system here would do everything i
want. Any advice on fixing it would be much appreciated. Or
considering it's age should I just replace the conrol box and use the
existing cabling (and sensors?)?

Regards,

Bjorn.


Take a look inside the control panel at which wires have been connected to
the zones, and which have been connected to the tamper circuit. They

should
be obvious inside the panel. Where you removed the detector you'll need

to
connect together the same colour wires that are connected to the zone and
tamper circuits inside the control panel, DON'T CONNECT THE POWER WIRES
TOGETHER, OR YOU'LL BLOW ALL THE FUSES, just wrap the bared zone and

tamper
wires to each other.

Example 1: If the Blue and Yellow wires are connected to the zone circuit
inside the control panel, then you need to wrap together the Blue and

Yellow
wires where the detector used to be.

Example 2: If the Brown and Green wires are used for the tamper circuit,
then you need to wrap together the Brown and Green wires where the

detector
used to be.

Example 3: If the Red and Black wires have been used for the power to the
detector, then you need to keep them separate where the detector used to

be.
Putting them together will blow the fuses, so keep them apart. Don't
connect them together at all.

Get the idea ?


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