Wayne Whitney wrote in message ...

1) My default idea is to use EMT, but there seems to be a confusing
number of different types of raceways. Can anyone point me to a
good overview of them?


I've only used EMT, and only 1/2" at that. It's reasonably easy to
work with, but as with anything else, there's a learning curve. In
fact, it's the "curves" that require the "learning".

I've seen installations where people used elbows and offset couplers
instead of bending the pipe. In fact, I had to run wire through such
an installation once. It was a real pain in the neck to thread the
wire through. You have to open each elbow in the run.

A conduit bender lets you form nice smooth curves, once you get the
hang of it. For me the hardest part was learning to get the offset
bend (a small "jog" in the conduit that brings it a little away from
the wall as it goes into a box) to face in the correct direction. Buy
more conduit than you need to account for errors.

You'll also need a rattail file small enough to smooth out the inside
edge of the conduit pieces. Otherwise the wire insulation can be
damaged by the sharp edge.

Other people on this thread have suggested running larger wire for
possible future needs. That may be a good idea, but you should
probably get yourself a good book or other reference to let you know
how many of what gage wire are permissible in the size conduit you
choose. Or, preferably, how to choose the right size for the wires you
intend to install.

3) The wall is concrete for the first 4' and then a wood stud cripple
wall covered in 1/2" sheer paneling. I don't have any experience
fastening to concrete, what is the best way to go? It would be
easier to attach to the sheer paneling, but I expect 4.5' is too
high to be convenient for receptacles.

I think that electricians tend to use Tapcon screws. They are probably
a little less work than the plastic anchors I usually use.


Greg Guarino