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Old January 27th 04, 06:54 PM
Andy Hall
 
Posts: n/a
Default 135 Degree worktop joint (external 45 degree)

On 27 Jan 2004 09:14:54 -0800, (James Simpson)
wrote:

My question is simple,


It should be, but I am not sure that I am completely clear on what you
want to achieve.

Could you possibly either post it as ASCII art. or sketch, scan and
put on a web site, or some other way to achieve something visual?



Are these types of joints possible using a standard (or even non
standard) worktop jig ?


One main thing that a worktop jig does is to produce an angle for the
postform joint (the curved front). Most jigs will deal with a right
angle or 45 degrees where the resultant angle is 135 degrees.


I basically have a 45 degree worktop joint in the corner where my
cooker is but the cooker needs to be recessed against the wall and not
inline with the rest of the kitche units.


What do you mean by a cooker in this sense? Is this a hob set into
the angled section of worktop?


So the worktop needs to be 135 degrees to the first peice, then the
peice over the cooker needs to be 90 degrees to that making it 45
degrees to the straight peice but slightly recessed. (and the same on
the other side)


Jigs can be quite versatile. I recently used a Screwfix one to help
create a desk for my office. I had a problem that may be the same
or similar to what you describe.

I used a beech block worktop and wanted to create overall an L-shape.
However, in the corner, I wanted space for a large CRT monitor and to
site a keyboard in front of it. The main work area is 600mm deep
and I wanted to create enough depth to accomodate monitor and keyboard
since this used the overall space most efficiently.

So, the overall plan was to use an angled piece of worktop across the
corner and then to put the monitor at the back. However, in order
to achieve the required width, it was necessary to have quite a width
of the angled run of worktop - more than the nominal 600mm.
Because of the geometry, this would result in a space at the back of
the angled piece - simply because of the depth of the worktop.
It works out that there would be a 45 degree triangle missing at the
back. In a kitchen, if this were a peninsula unit or in other
applications, the missing section might not matter, but in my
application I wanted the rear to be completely filled and meeting the
wall.

I achieved this by creating the 45 degree joints using the recommended
method with the jig. All front edges were in line following the
profile of the curved edge. I was also able to cut the recesses for
connecting bolts to hold the sections together. Biscuit joints were
used during final assembly to locate and align the sections.

The rear triangular section was created using the jig to create the
requisite 45 degree angled piece from a straight length of worktop - I
simply didn't use the postform angled piece of the jig. The section
was then biscuit jointed and glued and clamped to the rear of the
angled section.

This is probably not quite what you want to achieve, but jigs can be
versatile on what can be done with a little thought and planning.




Cheers - James


..andy

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