On Thu, 09 Sep 2004 16:55:24 GMT, "NoOne N Particular"
wrote:

True that if our jointery is perfect, you shouldn't need much clamping
pressure. But what if you should screw up . . .er. . .I mean if your joints
are a little less than optimal? You just might need a farking but-load of
clamping force.

Or the patience to re-do the "less than otimal" workmanship so
excessive force is unnecessary. To each his own. "If it doesn't fit,
use a bigger hammer" is something it took me a long time to outgrow,
so I really understand.

Or if your wood has a slight twist, warp, or cup. Not
everyone can afford the luxury of thickness planers and jointers, etc., and
not all wood is flat and straight.

In my original reply I was careful to say that I thought 3/4 to be
overkill for "fine woodworking."

We're talking about two different types of building here. If I'm
using undressed lumber that's crooked, bowed, warped and/or cupped,
I'm generally building outdoor play equipment and lawn furniture, not
furnishings for my home.

I've done a bit of that, and I've used the scissors jack out of my car
as a clamp, (or, more accurately, a spreader), too. The right "tool"
for the job, eh?

Michael Baglio
Hope I used enough smileys.