First, I assume you mean centering the body of the blade, less the teeth.
Next, the simple book coplanar test is not enough. Mine originally checked
"coplanar" by the book and had the same results with a wide blade as you
described.

Basically, the two wheels have to be aligned in all 3 dimensions. If one
dimension is out, your blade won't be square to the table, so that's easy. If
you examine the upper wheel adjustment, it handles another dimension. However,
that leaves one left.

For instance, if the upper frame has a twist relative to the lower, the two
wheels can be adjusted coplanar at one point, but only at that point. With the
blade under running tension, carefully check both the front and rear portions
of the two wheels. In my case I had to remove a pin from the riser, and rotate
the upper body.

Before any of this, however, try it with another blade. A defective blade can
cause this issue, and the wider the blade, the more the issue.

As to your current setup being acceptable: the main question is if it is
stable when cutting and with thinner blades. Teeth slightly off the tire are
okay, if they are not cutting it. I originally ran mine that way for awhile,
and just had to keep adjusting the wheel for different blades, until I had
time to fix it. On the other hand, it shouldn't happen with a new saw.

GerryG

On Wed, 01 Sep 2004 21:52:45 +0100, Neil Cummins
*neilcummins*@*utvinternet*.*ie* wrote:

Okay guys got an update. After spending all evening again trying to
setup the bandsaw I had some sucess. The best result I can get is on
the top wheel the 1/2 " blade is running slightly back off center,
while on the bottom wheel the blade is running to the front with the
tips of the blade teeth very slightly off the tyre. The blade stays in
this position all the time. Now my question is Is this setup
acceptable? or should I go back to where I bought it and demand a
replacement?
Neil