You will find that finger pressure on the outboard end of the stock is
enough. Remember, there is no kickback; you only have to remember not to
run your finger through the blade. As the stock gets smaller, you can use a
notched stick to keep the stock firmly in the wedge. Try it and you will
find out it really is simple and a safer way to do it.

I chose 6° for the wedge angle out of thin air. I also cut the slot in the
tenon at 6°. And, actually, these weren't exact, but fairly close. What I
wanted was the width of the wedge showing to be visually proportional to the
tenon. For my instance, 6° worked. I made the slot in the tenon the same
angle as the wedge because I was using a more brittle wood (mesquite and
bloodwood). If you are using a more bendable wood, you can make an angled
mortise and use the wedges to lock in the tenon.

Preston

"Ollie" wrote in message
...
What method you are using to keep stock safely in the plywood jig?

My only reason to select 5° for the tenoning wedge was that it did look
"right" for a 4° slot. If the wedge is 6°, what angle the slot should be?

+++ Ollie

"Preston Andreas" wrote in message
...
I had to cut a bunch out of ebony for wedged tenons. I set my bandsaw
fence
about 4" from the blade and ran a piece of plywood through. I then cut
out
the wedge shape in the edge of the plywood that I just cut. Make sure
the
wedge you cut out of the plywood, the width of the stock and the desired
length of the wedges are the same. Place the stock into the wedge and
run
the plywood against the fence and cut off the first wedge. Flip the
stock
over front to back and run again. This offsets the first angle cut into
the
stock. Keep repeating for more wedges. It is an easy setup, fast and
plenty accurate for wedges. BTW, I cut mine at approx. 6°.

Preston