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Yebligs
 
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Being into the 5th week of my kitchen install and in the midst of doing the
worktops, you have my greatest sympathy Simon! You must be gutted.
This is the one area that I'm least confident of success, particularly as I
have to do a join under the sink! (see other post)

Best insurance seems to be in the sealing. I notice Set Square says 'most of
which (silicon) gets squeezed out', so I wonder if waterproof PVA wouldn't
do a better, and deeper, seal?

Did you seal the end when you installed and what with?

Steve

"Set Square" wrote in message
...
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Simon Mogridge wrote:

A leaking kettle has damage the newly installed laminated chipboard
worktop in my kitchen. A raised area/blister approx 8 x 3cm and 1mm
high has appeared at the butt joint. As you might guess, the joint
lies over the edges of two carcases and the application of a clamp is
impossible. Can anyone please tell me how i can remove the blister
and re-seal the joint with out major damage. The replacement of the
worktop is a non-starter, i just could not face it after taking such a
long time to complete the kitchen!
I would be very grateful for your help. Regards, Simon


Sadly, there's not a lot you can do. Once chipboard gets wet and swells

up,
there's no going back.

When joining raw edges of worktop, it is usual to coat both with a thin
layer of clear silicon sealant - most of which gets squeezed out and wiped
off when you do the clamps up - but it helps to stop any damp getting in.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
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