First suggestion: Change the blade.
Second suggestion: Tell us what kind of blade (incl. teeth/inch)

Yes, thrust bearings and guide blocks do help things. However, I always test
new blades with both out of the way. For the curve and wood you stated, I
wouldn't have any problem cutting it without any blocks or thrust bearings.

I'm assuming you have reasonable blade tension, reasonable feed rate, and that
the saw came with the typical blades they ship them with.

Curious,... on that note, the typical blade shipped is too small for the riser
extension, which would mean you bought another blade of some type. While some
of the cheaper blades are not too good, they are typically much better than
what ships with the BS, and I wouldn't expect those results. Typically, a
blade costing about 1/3 less than the TimberWolf should still give reasonable
performance, so what gives here?

One other possibility comes to mind. I assume you installed the riser. Did you
then check the BS alignment fully? I have a Jet-14, and had to knock the pin
out of my riser in order to get the wheels aligned with the blade centered in
the table slot.

GerryG

On 29 Aug 2004 14:03:30 -0700, (Marcus Kellermann)
wrote:

I just purchased a new 14" Grizzly Utltimate Bandsaw with a 6 inch
riser block which gives it a 12 in capacity. After setting it up and
following the directions for tensioning the blade and setting the
glade guides (it has sealed bearing guides) it decided to test it out
using some scrape 3/4 plywood I had. Cutting straight lines went
fine, sure there was lead but that is to be expected. However when
attempt to cut a curve of about a 6 inch radius, the blade just twists
and the cut remains relatively straight. It has a 3/8 skip tooth
blade that came with the saw. I am sure it is a cheap blade and plan
on replacing it with a 3/16 inch TimberWolf blade. However it seems
like I should still be able to cut a curve with this blade.

Any ideas why it just twists? The thrust bearings is are thickness of
a business card from the blade and the guide wheels are just slightly
touching the blade. The blade guard is down to 1/4" above the work
piece.

Thanks
Marcus.