In article j4LTc.114800$gE.62968@pd7tw3no,
Dave wrote:
It's four feet away from where the plug(s) would be. Then again, the
system is versatile enough that changing it would be easy. I just want it
inspected and passed so I don't have to pay for another inspection later.
Am I hearing that there are so many different plug configurations that
guessing would be useless?

In broad, there are two _types_ of plugs used for 220V. the ones with
the straight blades that you just push/pull to connect/disconnect, and
the ones with 'L'-shaped curved blades, set in a circle -- called twist-lock
connectors.

Within each type, they come with different (read 'incompatible') sizes and
orientations of the blades, depending on the power-handling requirements.

*AND* there is the secondary question of whether or not the plug provides
for passing the 'neutral' connection, as well as 'ground'. An issue/concern
only if the device has some 110V-powered component, in addition to the 220V
one.

Thus, the 'spectrum' includes 3-wire/4-wire, straight/twist-lok, and something
like half-a-dozen possible power-rating levels. Which makes for TWENTY-FOUR
possible plug/socket types to choose from.

Basically there are only a couple of requirements, in making a selection.
1) it has to be rated for the power level you'll be pulling through it.
2) it has to match that which will be plugged into it. (changing plugs
on the corded thing _is_ allowed.

Unless you're dealing with seriously heavy-duty machinery (e.g. _honest_
5HP motors) a 20A plug will probably be adequate for most machinery.
Although a true 3HP cabinet-saw will likely need something bigger.

Comment: plugs/sockets are relatively _inexpensive_. 10 ga wire is adequate
for anything 'rational' -- well, short of a big arc-welder. grin
If you just need 'something to show', pull 10ga wire, put in a 20A breaker,
and a straight-blade 20A socket. changing the socket and/or the breaker
at a later date is 'trivial'; the wiring is good for 30A..