On Wed, 11 Aug 2004 18:22:38 -0400, "Bob Chilcoat"
wrote:

||This is a trick I use to get cup seals back in without damage:
||
||Get some thin string, preferably the least "fuzzy" you can find. Very fine
||monofilament nylon is best. When you are ready to put the cup seal into the
||cylinder (Master or Slave - both work) carefully wind the string
||continuously in a single layer around the cup seal from the outside end to
||the inside (open) end. This will compress the seal at the cupped open end
||so that you can insert it easily into the cylinder. Use just enough tension
||so that the seal is compressed to a smaller diameter than the ID of the
||cylinder. Insert it only a short distance into the cylinder with the loose
||far end of the string sticking out enough so that you can pull it out slowly
||as you unwind it. As you unwind the string, simultaneously slide the cup
||into the cylinder. When all the string is unwound, the seal should be all
||the way into the cylinder, with no kinks or wrinkles. This really works.

Hey, this is Metalworking!
Proper technique is to chuck a piece of rod stock into the lathe, and bore it to
a diameter slightly larger than the small end of the cup, and slightly smaller
than the bore of the MC. A through-hole need not be quite as big. Insert the
cup into the bore with about 1/6" sticking out (extra points for a step-bore to
facilitate this), apply to the MC, and poke it in with a rod from the backside
of your new tool.
Texas Parts Guy