In article , N.
Thornton writes
"Owain" wrote in message
...
"N. Thornton" wrote
| I've hit a problem. One floor is concrete, and the pipes
| are cemented in. So I guess I'd have to drain the system
| down for that one.
| Unfortunately its not something I can do quick, so freezing
| isnt an option.

Provided you've got a bit of lateral (rather than vertical) play in the
pipes, just turn off the valves at each end, which will seal the pipes (use
one of those caps if it's a thermostatic valve).

Unscrew one end of the rad from its valve and pull forward. Not much water
will come out of the rad, because it's a closed vessel. Put thumb firmly
over radiator outlet.

Here's where it's a good thing you're not IMM, because you really need a
friend for this bit.

Have friend repeat undo valve and put thumb over outlet trick at other end
of radiator.

Invert radiator so outlets are at top.

With rad inverted, water now unlikely to spill out. Carry radiator outside
and empty.

I was very scared the first time a plumber asked me to do this. But it
worked.

Usual warning - sludgy rad water is indelibly dye. Have towels handy and
protect floor in immediate area.

If you have a sealed primary system you'll have to repressurise after
reattaching the radiator and refilling/bleeding.

Owain


sounds clever. But... the pipes are cemented in, so no movement at
all. I'm beginning to think the only option is to drain down, saw
through the pipes, and reconnect with compression fittings afterwards.


Cheers, NT

Assuming that the rad valves are compression fittings, can't you undo
them after draining and then lift the rad off?, or have I got this
ABF?.....
--
Tony Sayer