On Fri, 06 Aug 2004 23:26:20 GMT, dave in fairfax
wrote:

Jay Pique wrote:
snip
Took it all back apart and started
the fettling process. I used ScarySharp (the use of abrasive paper in
lieu of sharpenijng stones) and lapped the sold of the plane flat up
to 600 grit (I think - I've since gone to 1200). Then I put a slight
chamfer on the leading edge of the mouth and the back edge of the sole
to avoid catching.

I'm glad that you're enjoying the seduction of handtools. %-)
Next time around, reassemble the plane, back the blade up so it
doesn't take a cut and then flatten the sole. Unless it's
flattened while stressed, it won't be the same shape as when it's
being used.

Good point - I think I've since lapped it while assembled, but I'm
going to check to make sure it's flat.

The leading edge of the throat is the important part
of the throat. It needs to be flat and sharp to work properly.
If you've chamfered it the way I envision it, you're allowing the
wood too much room between it and the blade. I's possible,
though, that I've just misunderstood you.

Yes, but due to my misuse of handplane vocabulary. I put a slight
chamfer on the very front edge (toe?) of the little sliding thingy
that you can move back and forth to adjust the mouth opening..

I'm glad that it works
for you. Now collect a handful of old Stanleys and make them work
right.

I've been to a couple of auctions, but no luck on planes yet. I'm
really hoping to score an old set of Starrett squares, calipers,
micrometers, etc...

JP