On Sun, 4 Jan 2004 18:31:21 -0000, "Stephen Williams"
wrote:

Can't picture the setup you have - not familiar with that TS. I have a
cheapie TS [Taiwan] that uses a steel fence that clamps to a rail
front and back. The front clamp is a pushdown quick lock, the rear
uses a screw clamp that has to be turned down. For short rips the
front clamp is OK, for longer rips the front and rear clamps need to
be set. [note] The front rail has a tape attached, but it's not
accurate and I always check the width of cut with a rule [ graduated
set square is better still ]. Allowing for the blade kerf of course.
I usually get the cut I want, to be certain I make a short cut first [
just a fraction of an inch ] measure and adjust. If you are certain
the fence is not moving during the rip [have you re-measured the
setting after the rip?] then the problem is likely the blade is not
parallel to the fence. That is, the blade is "tilted" - the tips of
the teeth you measured during set up are closer / further to/from the
fence than the blade body. Try checking the blade with a set square
against the table surface.
There's one other possibility, Run Out. Which means that you have a
TS with bad bearings - since it's new, return it.

[note] Some time see a Biesmeyer fence on a US made TS, it's smooth,
precision, repeatable cuts always - but the price!


Snip
It's the rip fence supplied with the TS that is causing me the problem. For
instance if I want to cut a long rail in half I can't seem to get the fence
to cut at the width I thought I set it at, and yes I have allowed for the
thickness of the blade.
I might just have to make a fence that will work off one of the runners I
guess.

Has anyone done this?

Steve