On 5/17/2021 6:05 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 17 May 2021 10:59:26 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 5/16/2021 8:16 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 16 May 2021 11:29:01 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 5/15/2021 4:17 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 15 May 2021 14:38:36 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 5/14/2021 10:12 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 13 May 2021 13:27:03 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 5/12/2021 9:20 PM, Casper wrote:
This morning I was able to remove 3 of the 4 brass thread nuts. The
last was stubborn. After further freezing, I got the 4th off. Only
things I used were WD40, Ballistol, and freezing.

The wheels are not pop-in, they have threaded steel shafts.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/iku0193rzc...%20PM.jpg?dl=0


Might try letting a temp change loosen the nuts.

I "HAD" a Kreg miter gauge years ago. It used a brass bin to index into
aluminum.

A couple of hours with direct sunlight and the pin seized. And of
course I forced the pin out with all means possible and the miter gauge
was no longer and good to me.

I replaced it with an Incra miter gauge. Steel on steel. ;~)

I have an Incra and a JessEm. The JessEm had that problem but
replacement parts were really easy to get from them and very
inexpensive. I've had the miter gauge for at least ten years so their
service gets an A+. The thing is a bit weird to use though.

I sawed the end of the Incra off by setting it up for a 90, then
cutting a 45 without resetting it. Oops. It was a sharp blade so
didn't even notice the aluminum. Parts are available and reasonable
from them, as well, but I haven't bothered.


I have an MDF sacrificial fence on my Incra. The actual fence will not
come in contact with the blade regardless of angle setting.
I can't afford to risk cutting the aluminum fence.

You ditched the Incra stop?
No, I use it.

If you move the stop, red portion, to the front grove on its carrier it
will sit out 3/4" from the face, room for the 3/4" thick sacrificial fence.

I didn't know that. I went down to take a look. Sure enough... But
I don't see how it helps, unless the sacrificial fence hangs out
1-1/2".

Yes, there is no reason that the sacrificial fence has to be the same
length as the fence. Its purpose is to be sacrificial so mine also
becomes a zero clearance on the back side of the cut. And my
sacrificial fence hangs out at least 1.5", sometimes more if I want a
fresh Zero clearance cut.

You compensate for the fence placement by placing the stop at a
different location on the carriage so that the rule is still dead on
accurate.

So you have to move the rule that 1-1/2" and lop it off?

No, Extend the flip stop dowel.
Look Here

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...in/dateposted/

In that picture I did not have the sacrificial fence extended to for the
zero clearance on the back side of the cut.






Using the sacrificial fence also is handy when cutting dados with the
miter gauge, again MDF creates a zero clearance on the back side of the
dado.

Do you just cut a new fence or have several, like a zero-clearance
insert?

I keep another sacrificial fence for that purpose so that I don't have
to keep whacking off the end.

Also good for tenons on the end of a board. I use the rip fence as the
stop and the sacrificial fence up against the rip fence.



Just adjust your fence so that it clears the blade at all angles. Then
reset your stop to the forward grove on the carriage and move the stop
on the carriage to compensate for the amount you moved the fence.






Afford? Fence is $36. The soft aluminum won't hurt a carbide blade.


Plus about $200 for a new SawStop brake and WWII blade.

Forgot about the silly brake. ;-) A WWII will cut it like butter and
not even know it's there. DAMHIK


Any blade will.