Thread: tinning steel
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Andrew[_22_] Andrew[_22_] is offline
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Default tinning steel

On 11/05/2021 12:41, John Walliker wrote:
On Monday, 10 May 2021 at 21:42:03 UTC+1, newshound wrote:
On 09/05/2021 13:29, AJH wrote:
On 09/05/2021 11:43, John Walliker wrote:
Phosphoric acid is good.

I've got some 80% strength what dilution? Why would it be better than
hydrochloric acid?

I am thinking of unearthing a set of bodywork books from the 1930s that
my wife's granddad gave me shortly before he died in the 60s. He was an
old school pane beater and before resin fillers they would beat out the
dents and use lead to get the final finish as a skim.

Phosphoric will convert the oxide (rust) to an adherent layer of iron
phosphate. Good if you are going to paint, less helpful if you wanted to
tin. Hydrochloric if you want to pre-treat (active fluxes are doing the
same thing).


I have used concentrated phosphoric acid as a flux when soldering stainless
steel. It can spit a bit, so wear eye protection. It makes really nice joints with
tin/lead solder. I haven't tried lead-free solder.
Hydrochloric acid or chlorine containing salts are more likely to leave corrosive
residues as chloride ions catalyse rusting.


Isn't that what 'Kurust' was intended for ?. That has been
reformulated as a water-based compound and is nowhere near as
good as the original product.