On 14/04/2021 19:06, wrote:
Thanks all. Few comments on your thoughts 1. Thanks alan_m for
your tips. I forgot to mention there will also be an 18mm "worktop"
on top of the cupboards which I could screw down into the cabinets is
needed. The only real weight is a 450mm cupboard which will sit on
top of the left half of the 900mm cupboard but on top of the worktop.
The left edge of the upper cupboard is on top of the side of the
lower cabinet but the other side is on top of the middle of the lower
cupboard.

2. Thanks John for your tips. - Yes have a circular saw so could do a
groove as you suggest. Might even be able to do it using my track
saw - Good idea the clamp wonder if making a right angle out
of 2 no 4x2 to butt against the sides would work better or maybe it
doesn't matter?


A notch in the end of the 4x2 so that you can hook it over one corner of
the case, then the same notch on the other end - but on the opposite
side, so you can hook the end of your clamp in it, and the other end
goes over the other corner of the cabinet.

Another way that works will is a length of ply about 4" wide with a
batten screwed to the ends on opposite sides (like an old fashioned
"bench hook") - again it just brings one edge close enough to fit your
clamp.


Was thinking, would I need to clamp top and bottom
to ensure both are square? Not sure how I would clamp both at once
though as somehow the cabinet would have to sit on the bottom one? -

Not really - if you cut the timber square - it will be close enough that
you can pull it square.

the hinges, I was hoping to use flush hinges to show it was hand
made and then have a clip/ catch pinned to either the top or the
base to clip the door closed.

Yup I often do that with roller catches - they work well with the main
bit on the top of bottom of the cabinet and the tang on the door. They
also allow for a little misalignment (either placement or wood movement):

https://www.screwfix.com/p/roller-ca...-10-pack/27007

- gluing the 1" to the front of the
12mm shelf, do you mean cutting a 1" strip out of the 12mm MDF and
glue it with the top of the 1" edge glued to the front edge of the
shelf (tops flush)?

I was thinking of a shelf with a (say) 1 x 0.75" cross section stip of
softwood planted on the edge:

Viewed from the side:

XXPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPP - ply shelf
XX - softwood lipping

So when you look at the front edge of the shelf, the shelf looks thicker
and more substantial than it actually is. The lipping also makes the
free edge less likely to sag.

e.g. The "worktop" of this:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/e/e...tCompleted.jpg

Looks like its over an inch thick. In reality its just 19mm MDF with a
thicker trim on the edge.

Similar trick here. 19mm ply top:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...NearlyDone.jpg

With extra softwood strip glued under it (and in this case setback from
the edge a bit), to make it look thicker:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...tFinishing.jpg

- very kind of you to offer to draw it thanks
very much but I think I have it - famous last words

:-)


--
Cheers,

John.

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