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John Rumm John Rumm is offline
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Default Building cabinets - how to square them

On 13/04/2021 18:01, wrote:

Thanks very much all for your advice. In response to your questions/ thoughts
- I need to make 2 x base units (900mm x 500mm), 2 x chest of drawers (400 x 500), 2 wall units (450 x probably 1200mm but TBD)
- I am trying to avoid using a router (mainly because I haven't had much luck with one to date) so was planning on using butt joints to connect the pieces of the cabinet together


The router was more for making an "inset" back so that its not visible
when looking at the sides of the cabinet.

If you have a circular saw and a rip fence, then you can make a pair of
1/2" non through cuts to take the corner out of the back inside edge
before you assemble the box.

(when doing the cut on the edge - stack some other boards up beside the
one you are cutting to support the saw base and stop it tilting)

- what size screws would you suggest I use for the butt joints


40mm to 50mm will be fine. The Reisser "cutter" screws are quite nice -
and less likely to split if driven into an edge without a pilot hole.

- unfortunately I don't have a sash clamp but do have some G clamps and some quick release clamps like these (https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/clamps/8793016). Also have a load of off-cut timber/ boards etc. Was hoping to rig something up to save me buying the sash clamp just for this project - any ideas?


Yup just take notch out of the timer at each end, on opposite sides to
make a clamp extension. Hook one end over the corner you need to pull,
then use the clamp to pull the extension toward the other corner.

- unfortunately we have decided to have the type of doors which are framed inside the opening rather than the kitchen door type style where it sits on the front of the carcass. I was planning on putting some 18mm timber to frame the door and to hinge the door off so hopefully any slight issue with the cabinets can be hidden with the timber and ensure the opening is square for the door



If you put a (glued on) lipping round the ply of the door, you can then
always plane an edge to get nice looking margins all round.

and some follow up questions
- The 900 base units have double doors but was hoping to not have the vertical bar up the front. Will the 18mm ply be ok without the support?


If you use kitchen style hinges, then they provide a positive stop in
the closed position without needing any other support.

- I have some 12mm MDF and some 12mm ply which I was thinking of using for the middle shelf screwed in through the sides. Will this be sufficient?


I would probably want to use 19mm on the 900mm wide unit. If you want to
use the thin stuff, then stick a 1" deep lipping on the front (flush
with the top of the shelf, and under hanging the underside) - it will
stop the front sagging, and also make it look far more substantial.

Let me know if you want me to draw any of the above to make it a bit
clearer.

--
Cheers,

John.

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