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Brian Gaff \(Sofa\) Brian Gaff \(Sofa\) is offline
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Default Mains off - back on - no TV

Yes my edis sub woofer blue up its bridge rectifier a couple of years ago.
When my friend pulled out the offending device and looked it up it was not
rated for peak currents over a certain amount, but when the capacitors were
charged at turn on this current was much higher as a transient, Hence
fitting a more capable bridge slightly raised on wires has been good ever
since. Companies trying to save pennies at the expense of reliability. Now
its giving problems with its switch on, which is supposed to be triggered by
very low levels of audio and kept on for minutes. The only way to boot it up
is to unplug it and plug it in multiple times till it hears the sound.
Suspect some other component is now changing value. Moor cheap crap I
expect.
Brian

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"Paul" wrote in message
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R D S wrote:
I cycled the mains off and back on a few times by means of the RCD, now a
TV doesn't work.

could be a coincidence?
Or do folk tend to unplug stuff?


Damage to an inrush limiter on the power front end ?

In this diagram, it is NTCR1 near the plug. NTCR1 tames
the rate that C5/C6 charge up (transient amperes through
the bridge rectifier).

http://www.pavouk.org/hw/en_atxps.html

When an inrush limiter is implemented that way, it
needs time to cool off, between uses. Like, 60 seconds
of power off, then power on again.

Rapidly toggling mains to things like ATX power supplies,
can cause them to pop and fail. in one of the computer
groups, we got a report from someone who had done this
out of frustration, until they heard a "pop" sound
come from the PSU :-)

There is more than one way to implement inrush limiting.
On designs with active PFC, you can use the PFC pass
transistor as an inrush limiter, at powerup. And then there
is no longer a "thermal" issue. The PFC controller recognizes
that T=0 and operates in inrush limiting mode, and then
a fraction of a second later switches to PFC mode.

There is also fuse F1 in that schematic diagram, but because
those are Slo Blow type, they almost never pop. It takes
a proper short circuit in the front end, to open fuse F1.

*******

TV sets are partitioned into "boards", and the power
function is a separate board. You should be able to
recognize the function, by the number of electrolytic
capacitors on the board. The power board has SMPS
(switched mode power supplies), similar to an ATX
supply for a computer, but with different voltages on it.

Power boards are a frequent source of failures, but this
was back during the "capacitor plague" when badly fabricated
capacitors would corrode through and leak. There were some
TVs and computer monitors that suffered for this.

The power boards can be OEM items, and the TV factory
did not necessarily make the power board.

Paul