On 05/04/2021 09:30, wrote:
3. Thanks John for your various links - I can only hope mine are half
as good as these 
. Couple of questions if I may a. Did you create
the shaker doors by using 3" x 1" to make the surround and then
router a groove in the back to then put the 9mm MDF?
That would work, but it s not actually how I did those particular ones.
I did those on the table saw as a "cope and stick" construction using a
dado blade (a stack of two ordinary blades and a pass from each side
would also work well). That put the panel in the middle of the door, set
back from both sides:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...DoorInside.jpg
I cut all the edge timbers to approximate length, then put a 9mm centred
slot down one side of all of them - basically wide enough to take the panel.
Then I cut the rails to be final length + 2 x Depth of slot, and cut a
full width tenon on the end (few passes over the blade with the cross
cut guide in the table slot) - just the right size to fit the slot.
The whole door could then be assembled. Since the panel was MDF and all
the lengths were long grain, the whole thing could be glued.
If going for a real wood panel, then I would cut that a little under
full width, and leave it floating - with just the rails and stiles
glued[1]. Looking at the top of the door you can get a glimpse of the
construction, like on this real wood version:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/5/5...ornerDoor2.png
[1] note that unlike traditional doors with a much more substantial M&T
joint at the corners, this is not as strong - but usually plenty good
enough for a cupboard door.
I was thinking of using (say) 18mm ply for the door and then pin/
glue some thin ply/ MDF to the front to make the shaker surround.
Did this for a bath surround but would appreciate thoughts on this
for doors. Any top tips newshound (e.g. finishing the edges so you
don't see the 2 pieces) as seems like you have done a similar thing
although my "add on" bits were more like 3mm
The really simple way is as you say a panel the size of the door, and
then "planted on" rails and stiles. All from MDF.
The youtube master of the MDF door must be Peter Millard. He has loads
of videos on these done using a number of techniques. e.g.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jwGvYsvdCg4
The drawers on the media centre look amazing. Not sure my skills are
good enough for this and I don't have the tools. Any simpler methods to
make them?
Well the fronts can be any panel assembly method you like - including
planted on rails and stiles.
The boxes are in most cases not that critical. I used finger joints
since I can do lots of drawers in a single operation, and they are very
strong) 90 odd CDs are quite heavy! Having said that, there are plenty
of easy ways that work just fine. Simple gluing and screwing but joints
at the 4 corners of the boxes will be fine. You can then plant on a
base, glued and pinned, or better still just route a rebate round the
whole of the bottom of the drawer box, and drop the draw base into it -
that looks better and adds more resistance to "racking" in the base.
Another option that works well are the drawer mitre lock router bits:
https://www.rutlands.com/sp+routing-...tlands+m_tr245
you use the same bit to cut both ends of the joint, and it makes for a
quick and easy to glue up drawer box.
The slide out section for the AV gear is inspired
It was "ok" in the form you see there. In reality I went back and
changed it a bit (must do so extra photos for it). Later I fitted a much
heavier AV amp (15kg), and found I needed to add a third drawer runner
under the middle of the base. I also realised that when seated you could
not actually see the top of the box much beyond the leading edge. I was
also always a bit annoyed by the slight variation in margin around the
edges caused by an earlier "out of square" cutting error. So I modified
the box to fix the "square issue" and also remove the entire top of the
thing apart from a 6" deep strip at the front. That made access for
wiring up *much* better. I also made a slotted vertical divider to go in
the front - that allowed me better control of the margin spacing, and
looked a bit more appealing.
4. In terms of tools I have.... - Track saw (i.e. one of those
circular saws that run on a metal track for doing straight cuts) -
Router (although haven't managed to get it to do anything useful
yet) - A table gadget which enables you to make a table saw/ router
by fixing a normal router/ circular saw to it. Not very professional
but seems to work (ish) - Regular circular saw - Chop saw - Drills -
air compressor and nail gun - biscuit cutter although never used it!
- good selection of hand tools etc.
In which case you already have more than enough kit to go about these in
a number of ways :-)
5. John - you mention "It's not difficult to buy a strip of software
trim to glue on". Assume the word software is a typo? What trim are
you referring to?
Yup, sorry my bad - softwood!
Most DIY shops have a stock of all kinds of beads and profiles including
dowels, coves, quarter rounds etc, but also usually just plain old
strips of something rectangular you can trim to length and stick on.
However given the tools you have at your disposal, simply ripping strips
of the side of a suitable thickness of plank will give you plenty of
shelf or door edge lipping material.
--
Cheers,
John.
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