On 04/04/2021 19:29, T i m wrote:
On Sun, 4 Apr 2021 17:10:03 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

On 04/04/2021 15:57, T i m wrote:
On Sun, 4 Apr 2021 05:51:00 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

Would appreciate any thoughts you have on the matter

I'm not sure you will. ;-)

For the shelves, straight Contiboard for light loads or
tongue-n-groove floorboards that can be glued together for wider
shelves and with the tongues cut off the front shelf (and glued in the
rear groove IYCBA) are very very strong (no sag) and when sanded and
not painted, need little in the way of maintenance, no matter how
rough you treat them.

Also worth checking softwood window boards - readily available from most
builders merchants etc:

Any idea how they compare on price though john. Being 'only'
floorboards they seemed to be much cheaper /sq/m than buying the same
for any other role.

If you want the the extra thickness and depth you get with a windows
board (they are usually a nominal 9x1" before planing) then they are not
dissimilar in price per unit volume when compared to floorboards.

(scaffold boards can also be another good cheap source of "heavy" timber)

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...ardShelves.jpg

Having said that, for most applications I find 3/4" ply with a softwood
lipping is usually pretty good at not sagging so long as the shelf is
10" deep or so.

Sure, but that's (the nosing) probably a step too far for most people.

Depends on how much you like the visible edge of ply... If painting you
could probably cover it. The win with nosing is that it can then be
routed for a more attractive edge, and also can be made deeper than the
shelf if going for a heavier looking shelf.

The "worktop" on this is only 19mm MDF - but the nosing is deeper, and
also wide enough to allow the 50mm radius on the corners.

It's not difficult to buy a strip of software trim to glue on (or in my
case I rip a bit off a wider board, glue and pin and then router flush
and profile)

When the horrible (inherited) chipboard cubbyhole unit fell off the
wall of my mates PC shop and de-assembled itself on the floor, he
called me to help me put it back together and up on the wall again. I
refused and long short, we fitted slotted shelving instead and before
long we had done the entire shop. He's since retired but the shelving
is still there and has taken all sorts of things it was never designed
for. ;-)

Yup the spur clone stuff is very sturdy and I quite like it for some
applications. I would not usually use it in furniture though.


Not sure any of the above would be acceptable in the show houses of
today though. The houses where people exist and not live. ;-)

You can get much the same adjustment versatility using those
brass/silver inset shelf support strips:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/f/f...vesGoingIn.jpg

Which look a bit less industrial when included in furniture.

Well, true, but assumes you have / want a 'unit' to fit them in?

Well it is what the OP was suggesting...

Funnily though, I have a 90cm wide x 140cm high space over a
post-formed-edged worktop (on battens on the three sides) that is over
the WM and (currently) supporting the TD.

We have a mini freezer ready to replace the TD and want to make use
of the extra space above the freezer but ... it has to be easily
removable to give access to the roofspace above.

So, given there is some electrical trunking one side and pipes at the
other, I was thinking of just using some slotted shelving either side,
some of the shortest shelf brackets carrying a couple of battens (per
level, like your inserts) and then I could use T+G floorboard
screwed to the battens. Easy to cut / make, very flexible,
dismountable, strong and cheap.

I would prefer to used some post formed edge worktop but it would be a
bit more to handle, cut and fit, especially when doing it all in the
kitchen / utility area (as it's bound to be raining every time I try
to do it in the back garden).

Cheers, T i m



--
Cheers,

John.

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