On 3/8/2021 1:30 PM, Jack wrote:
On 3/2/2021 8:39 PM, Leon wrote:
On 3/2/2021 5:15 PM, StevenWoodward wrote:
Moving a table saw fence by very small amounts can be hit and miss.
With a dial indicator at the right location on the fence, I found it
is easy to tap the fence and move it by 0.001 inch at a time.
Locate the probe of dial indicator over the fence rail so that dial
indicator does not change when the fence is tightened - see red
circle in photo below.


You do have a SawStop, right?

I have the ICS model and the Fence rule is good enough.Â* Sometimes I
use a steel rule when setting the fence with aÂ* stacked dado.

When do you, need more accuracy than that?

Never! Most wood pores range from .002 to .008", so tough to need more
accuracy than pore size.Â* These measurements are for machinists, not
wood workers...


A couple of times I have found this fine adjustment helpful:
1. Cutting UHMW runners to fit nicely in the miter slot for floats
2. Cutting mortise and tenon joints on table saw, to get a good fit.

1.Â* You don't need that kind of accuracy for a runner.Â* And you can
sneak up one using a scrap.

2.Â* I have literally build hundreds of kitchen cabinet doors, shaker
style, with a slot and stub tennon.Â* I do not use a rule or the fence
rule at all for cutting the tenons or slots.

I believe you use the $1000+ domino for these joints, right? They are
good but I bet not within a mile of .001" accuracy:-)

Yeah, I never checked, HA! When you mate pieces and you do not feel
the joint, that is close enough. No need to measure. ;~)

The only time I deal with "thousandths" is when I use shims on a dado
stack. But that is no where .001". Heck wood moves more than that from
morning to afternoon in our humid climate.




For all other work I just use the measuring tape built into the fence
rail. The table saw cut usually gets run over the jointer anyway.

And that is wrong.Â* There is no valid reason to run an edge over the
jointer after cutting to width on a TS.Â* If your TS is not cutting
accurately or leaving tooth marks on your wood you need to spend some
time setting your saw up properly and most of all using a good regular
kerf blade.Â* Like a Forrest WWII.

Video Demonstration:Â* https://youtu.be/MZu0JvW1g3k
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/1cx9


After watching your video, re read what I said again.Â* You are using a
dial indicator to make fence adjustments and yet you are not getting
the correct result.Â* You are having to make extra passes.

If you must use a dial indicator, measure your slot with a caliper and
adjust your fence the correct amount the first time.

After all these years of me bitching about rules with 1/32 increments in
the first foot...Â* For me, most of the time 1/8 is enough, I can guess
between that for 1/16th, but can live with 1/16th 99.9% of the time.
Anything between 1/16th and 1/32nd is a a "tad" and that's more than
enough all the time in WW.


32's are decent to use, well they are never decent to use, but I use
them when building something with dado's/groves.
The, less than what you bought, thickness of plywood can throw things
off when the carcass is supposed to be 3/4" thick and your front and
back face frames receives these panels.
The panels fitting into themselves and into the face frames requires a
bit of accuracy.
And you don't know if dado/groove placement is right or not until glue
up. Throw a center stile and vertical panel into the mix and it really
gets your attention.