On Sun, 21 Feb 2021 11:43:38 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/20/2021 6:55 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 20 Feb 2021 15:00:59 -0800 (PST), Bob D
wrote:

On Friday, February 19, 2021 at 9:12:37 PM UTC-6, wrote:
On Fri, 19 Feb 2021 09:44:31 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 7:21 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 18 Feb 2021 16:54:46 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 4:03 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 18 Feb 2021 11:47:02 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 11:24 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet writes:
On 2/16/2021 6:18 PM, Bob D wrote:
Has anyone used a Wixey laser cross hair adaptor for a drill press? I can buy one at Rockler for $37.50 or buy a new powermatic drill press for $1500 or do nothing.

Bob



My Delta DP came with one. Unless they have gotten a lot better, I
would not advise getting one.

I never ever used it. I felt that a laser on a DP would be as useful as
using one on a sander, or hammer. ;~)

You do have to actually drill a hole at some point, let the bit be your
pointer.

If you need to pin point a location before hand, use a 1/16" bit to line
things up.

Or use a brad-point bit.



That too, but a smaller one. If drilling at an angle the spurs on a
larger brad point bit can prevent the point from touching the exact
spot, for initial alignment.

I had that issue when using drilling these holes for wine bottle stoppers.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...7630857421932/

But a smaller bit defeats the purpose of the brad. If you have to
drill at an angle, use a Forstner bit. ...or just use a twist drill
and be done with it.



The small bit was for alignment only. The spurs on the 1/2" brad point
bit cut into the wood, at an angle, very much like a Forstner bit. The
bottles being drilled sat in a cradle.

But if the brads touch the wood before the pin, a pilot hole isn't
going to do a thing. The pin won't do anything either. Might just as
well use a twist drill.

With a 1/2" bit no deflection so no pilot hole needed. A regular bit
will not cut as cleanly at the entry point as a brad point bit.



Also, there are only two brads so the bit will tend to "walk". A
Forstner but won't "walk". A Forstner is a better choice.


And yet, I had no issue with the bit doing anything but go straight down
and into the wood. The spurs were cutting cleanly before the brad
point. Like a Forstner bit.

I will say however that I was using the Colt 5 Star brad point bit.
Those bits 1/4" and larger, cut through a piece of wood with no backer
board and do not tear out on the back side when the bit goes through.
Since Colts are no longer available, I had to settle for Fisch. I do
have a few Colts but sets weren't available even several years ago.
I'd still rather use a Forstner for off-axis holes.

I use Lee Valley HSS brad point bits and Freud carbide forstners. I find them to be equal for clean cutting and not walking. Actually the Lee valley bits have a superior point. They are kind of surgical in nature.

All else being equal, steel will take a better edge than carbide. It
just won't keep it as long.



The results deeply depend on the material. was doing plunge cuts,
through 3/8" thick Ipe, with a 3/8" carbide router bit. These cuts were
1.5" long. A carbide router bit would last me approximately 300", and
200 plunges before needing to be resharpened.

I neighbor suggested and brought me a HSS end mill bit of the same size.
I used it for the same function and never wore it enough to need to be
resharpened or replacement.

In this case comparing new carbide to new HHS end mill bit, the end mill
bits stayed sharp an undetermined amount of time longer.

Is that the steel or the shape of the pointy end? Some of the up/down
cut solid-carbide spirals have a pretty decent cutter on the end. Your
Shaper should have similar bits.