On 2/20/2021 7:41 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 20 Feb 2021 17:11:33 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/19/2021 9:12 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 19 Feb 2021 09:44:31 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 7:21 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 18 Feb 2021 16:54:46 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 4:03 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 18 Feb 2021 11:47:02 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 11:24 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet writes:
On 2/16/2021 6:18 PM, Bob D wrote:
Has anyone used a Wixey laser cross hair adaptor for a drill press? I can buy one at Rockler for $37.50 or buy a new powermatic drill press for $1500 or do nothing.

Bob



My Delta DP came with one. Unless they have gotten a lot better, I
would not advise getting one.

I never ever used it. I felt that a laser on a DP would be as useful as
using one on a sander, or hammer. ;~)

You do have to actually drill a hole at some point, let the bit be your
pointer.

If you need to pin point a location before hand, use a 1/16" bit to line
things up.

Or use a brad-point bit.



That too, but a smaller one. If drilling at an angle the spurs on a
larger brad point bit can prevent the point from touching the exact
spot, for initial alignment.

I had that issue when using drilling these holes for wine bottle stoppers.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...7630857421932/

But a smaller bit defeats the purpose of the brad. If you have to
drill at an angle, use a Forstner bit. ...or just use a twist drill
and be done with it.



The small bit was for alignment only. The spurs on the 1/2" brad point
bit cut into the wood, at an angle, very much like a Forstner bit. The
bottles being drilled sat in a cradle.

But if the brads touch the wood before the pin, a pilot hole isn't
going to do a thing. The pin won't do anything either. Might just as
well use a twist drill.

With a 1/2" bit no deflection so no pilot hole needed. A regular bit
will not cut as cleanly at the entry point as a brad point bit.



Also, there are only two brads so the bit will tend to "walk". A
Forstner but won't "walk". A Forstner is a better choice.


And yet, I had no issue with the bit doing anything but go straight down
and into the wood. The spurs were cutting cleanly before the brad
point. Like a Forstner bit.

I will say however that I was using the Colt 5 Star brad point bit.
Those bits 1/4" and larger, cut through a piece of wood with no backer
board and do not tear out on the back side when the bit goes through.

Since Colts are no longer available, I had to settle for Fisch. I do
have a few Colts but sets weren't available even several years ago.
I'd still rather use a Forstner for off-axis holes.



Actually they are available.

https://www.amazon.com/Colt-Star-Bra.../dp/B008I2KVE2

"They" are not. The only one listed is a 7/16" and that's the last
one left. I don't see a set sold anywhere. At $21.95 a bit, a set of
29 is well into the Festool range. ;-)

Well, yes they are, I just added that bit to my cart.

Hartville Hardware has 3 different sizes listed. Only 7/16 and 1/2" in
stock.

BUT I never bought a set all at once. I bought them individual. And
yes they are expensive but they are priced according to size.

I bought several individual of these bits in several sizes from a close
out table at Cornerstone Hardware a few years back. IIRC they were
marked down 75%. I bought at least one of each size.

When you see them you have to jump on them. ;~)

They are becoming scarce.



Hartville tool only lists a 7/16", also. Strange, eh?

AND not all Colt brad point bits are created equally, the 5 Star are
much cleaner cutting.

I do have Forstner bits but really could tell no difference in making
the holes for the wine bottle stopper holders.

Aren't wine bottle stopper holders called "wine bottles"?


That too. ;~)