On Saturday, February 20, 2021 at 8:41:15 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Sat, 20 Feb 2021 17:11:33 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/19/2021 9:12 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 19 Feb 2021 09:44:31 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 7:21 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 18 Feb 2021 16:54:46 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 4:03 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 18 Feb 2021 11:47:02 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 11:24 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet writes:
On 2/16/2021 6:18 PM, Bob D wrote:
Has anyone used a Wixey laser cross hair adaptor for a drill press? I can buy one at Rockler for $37.50 or buy a new powermatic drill press for $1500 or do nothing.

Bob



My Delta DP came with one. Unless they have gotten a lot better, I
would not advise getting one.

I never ever used it. I felt that a laser on a DP would be as useful as
using one on a sander, or hammer. ;~)

You do have to actually drill a hole at some point, let the bit be your
pointer.

If you need to pin point a location before hand, use a 1/16" bit to line
things up.

Or use a brad-point bit.



That too, but a smaller one. If drilling at an angle the spurs on a
larger brad point bit can prevent the point from touching the exact
spot, for initial alignment.

I had that issue when using drilling these holes for wine bottle stoppers.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...7630857421932/

But a smaller bit defeats the purpose of the brad. If you have to
drill at an angle, use a Forstner bit. ...or just use a twist drill
and be done with it.



The small bit was for alignment only. The spurs on the 1/2" brad point
bit cut into the wood, at an angle, very much like a Forstner bit. The
bottles being drilled sat in a cradle.

But if the brads touch the wood before the pin, a pilot hole isn't
going to do a thing. The pin won't do anything either. Might just as
well use a twist drill.

With a 1/2" bit no deflection so no pilot hole needed. A regular bit
will not cut as cleanly at the entry point as a brad point bit.



Also, there are only two brads so the bit will tend to "walk". A
Forstner but won't "walk". A Forstner is a better choice.


And yet, I had no issue with the bit doing anything but go straight down
and into the wood. The spurs were cutting cleanly before the brad
point. Like a Forstner bit.

I will say however that I was using the Colt 5 Star brad point bit.
Those bits 1/4" and larger, cut through a piece of wood with no backer
board and do not tear out on the back side when the bit goes through.

Since Colts are no longer available, I had to settle for Fisch. I do
have a few Colts but sets weren't available even several years ago.
I'd still rather use a Forstner for off-axis holes.



Actually they are available.

https://www.amazon.com/Colt-Star-Bra.../dp/B008I2KVE2
"They" are not. The only one listed is a 7/16" and that's the last
one left. I don't see a set sold anywhere. At $21.95 a bit, a set of
29 is well into the Festool range. ;-)

Hartville tool only lists a 7/16", also. Strange, eh?

AND not all Colt brad point bits are created equally, the 5 Star are
much cleaner cutting.

I do have Forstner bits but really could tell no difference in making
the holes for the wine bottle stopper holders.
Aren't wine bottle stopper holders called "wine bottles"?

Sometimes the wine bottle stopper holder is the person that just made
wine bottle unstopped. Right after that it's usually the table, bar or
countertop.