On 1/22/2021 10:56 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Fri, 22 Jan 2021 04:14:34 -0800 (PST), Brian Welch
wrote:

On Thursday, January 21, 2021 at 9:58:30 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, January 21, 2021 at 8:19:47 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Thu, 21 Jan 2021 09:18:08 GMT, Puckdropper
wrote:
Sonny wrote in news:ba8439dd-e908-40d8-98b9-
:

That's not totally safe. I'd use a different technique.

Sonny


I wouldn't trust it to be repeatable either. If that 2x4 is not tight to
the table, the work piece can slide under and your cut will be off ever so
slightly.
How do you get the 2x4 tight without lifting the miter gauge in the
slot? It looks like a bad idea all around.
I don't like the idea of the piece being trapped between the stop block
and the blade. It just doesn't look safe to me.

What would happen if the piece got a little loose and shifted/"twisted"
sideways a bit?
Good point...one reason why I would have preferred the reverse bevel cut...

It looks like he's using a small saw that doesn't have a lot of power
so there's little actual danger--the thing will likely stall instead
of throwing the workpiece. The trouble with learning on small tools
is that you learn to expect a stall rather than the workpiece being
thrown into the next county or your liver, whichever it hits first.



Jeez, IYHO I guess. I had more issues with less HP saws than with
higher HP saws. Size has nothing to do with it.

My experience is that a lower power saw and blade will slowdown and
catch the wood to throw it back. With more power the blade simply cuts
through the tight spot.