Obviously though, you need to sleeve each wire and the whole lot in heat
shrink for the safety of the next person who comes along after you!


This from a person who has just remembered the chock block he pushed behind
the convection heater blocking up the chimney in the living room. Ahem, well
it was a good idea for a temp way to run four filament strip lights at half
brightness cos I got fed up with them blowing.
Brian

--

This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
On 23/10/2020 15:49, GB wrote:
We have a fault in the cabling for one of our kitchen ceiling lights. The
lamp I have just removed was running rather warm, and it's cooked the end
of the cable.

I can't replace the cable without taking up carpets and loads of
floorboards upstairs. And I've pulling on the cable, but it won't budge,
so there's no hope of pulling a new one through.

My plan is to trace the cable back 30 cms to a sound bit of cable, make a
hole in the ceiling, and extend the cable from there to the lamp. The
idea is to put the replacement light in the same position as the old one.

So, some questions:

Are there any connectors I can use that are allowed within the
regulations?

Crimp or solder and heatshrink

Are there any connectors I can use that are safe, even though not allowed
within the regulations?

I'd prefer a small connector, so I don't have to make a whopping hole in
the ceiling. Any suggestions, please?

If you can solder do that. Finished result wont be much bigger than the
cable you pulled out to extend - soon tuck back...


--
"People believe certain stories because everyone important tells them, and
people tell those stories because everyone important believes them.
Indeed, when a conventional wisdom is at its fullest strength, one's
agreement with that conventional wisdom becomes almost a litmus test of
one's suitability to be taken seriously."

Paul Krugman