On 25/08/2020 15:15, Scott wrote:
On Mon, 24 Aug 2020 22:52:32 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

On 23/08/2020 18:49, Scott wrote:
On Thu, 20 Aug 2020 19:03:32 +0100, ARW
wrote:

On 18/08/2020 20:57, Scott wrote:
On Tue, 18 Aug 2020 20:30:33 +0100, ARW
wrote:

On 18/08/2020 11:51, Scott wrote:
On Tue, 18 Aug 2020 10:51:29 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
Scott wrote:
Why do you think the system was introduced with 1, 2, 3, 5, 7, 10 and
13 amp fuses unless a lower rated fuse had safety benefits?

And it failed miserably. If a fuse blows, all the vast majority will do is
replace it to get it working again. And are very unlikely to have all
those values to hand. And the spares they are likely to find, 13 amp.

Hence the current method of having wiring capable of taking out a 13 amp
fuse if there is a sort somewhere without causing a fire. And protecting
the device itself with its own fuse if needed.

IMO changing to a 2 amp fuse can only nudge safety in one direction.

Only if it is the real thing. And even them there is very little difference.

Is the counterfeit risk inversely related to amperage then?

Depends on what it is made of?

I assumed they were the same apart from the thickness of the fuse
wire. Are you saying 2 amp fuses are more likely to be counterfeit
products than 13 amp fuses? Why would anyone counterfeit a 2 amp fuse
when they could probably sell far more 13 amp fuses?

I expect the after market for 13A fuses is tiny. Typically most things
come with them fitted - so any active fuse changes will usually involve
3 or 5A.

(My stock of 13A fuses has grown with time, in spit of never having
bought any).

Good point. So has mine.

Doesn't everyone save the fuse from the moulded-on plug when
disposing of yet another failed kettle/toaster/... ?