On 17/08/2020 19:08, Cursitor Doom wrote:
On Mon, 17 Aug 2020 16:20:35 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

Probably fake - the end caps look too shiny to be Bussman

Whoa! Not so fast, John. I said the picture was of the exact same
*type* NOT the actual fuses I have!

So if yours are of the "exact same type", how are they not exactly the
same? :-)


Here are some tell tails:

https://www.pat-testing-training.net...fake-fuses.php

(there is also more to a fuse than will it blow at an appropriate level
of overload. Actually having the capacity to interrupt the flow of
current, and not exploding in your face being some important ones!)

The ones I have actually *look* like really nice quality. They have
quite thick, substantial ceramic cases to contain any flames or hot
gases. I cracked a couple open to see inside.

You could flip the argument, and say never fit anything other than a 13A
fuse. The purpose of the fuse (for any moderately recent appliance
anyway) is to provide *fault* protection to the flex - and a 13A fuse
will do that just fine.

Not quite in this application. I'm resurrecting an old variac that
needs to be brought into the 21st century. It has no fuse on the
secondary side apart from a few other shortcomings safety-wise that
I'm in the process of eliminating. Damn useful things to have in
certain parts of the world, variacs.

Indeed, why I made the exception for historic kit where they designer
may have placed the onus on the person fitting the plug to provide
overload protection as well as fault protection.

(with time it became clear that joe public was not equipped to make
sensible choices in this area, and the modern practice of ensuring that
if overload protection was required, then it must be in the appliance
itself and not on the end of the flex where it can be changed at the
whim of anyone with access to a fuse (or bit of tin foil).



--
Cheers,

John.

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