On Thu, 16 Jul 2020 02:07:36 -0400, posted
for all of us to digest...


On Wed, 15 Jul 2020 19:09:03 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 15, 2020 at 9:05:01 PM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 15 Jul 2020 15:07:42 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 15, 2020 at 3:40:37 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 7/15/2020 4:28 PM, AK wrote:
Is there a way to attach this so it does not come loose when I am removing cords?

Thanks.

https://imgur.com/a/AaRGYH9


Yes, replace it with one like third one down that has a screw to hold it
in place
https://www.amazon.com/outlet-extend...utlet+extender

Thanks Ed.

Andy
The first step is to wire the box properly. You can't connect a box
with extention cord like that. Buy a proper "power bar" and plug it in
where you have that cord plugged in (you didn't REALLY" hardwire" that
circuit with fleible extention cord, did you????

something like
https://www.uline.ca/Product/Detail/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
with 12 connections on a 6 foot cord or this one
https://www.infinitecables.com/power...iABEgKsyvD_BwE
with a 15 foot cord

It is not wired with an extension cord, but with properly gauged wire.

Andy

It is still a device box on a cord. That box is only listed if the
"cable" (not a cord) is secured within 12" of the push in entry.
Clare is right, you would have been better off with a power strip.
Then you would not be having the tap problem in the first place.

I usually try not to get involved in these things because the actual
code would really **** you off. None of that stuff is legal (cube
taps, power strips, 6 outlet extensions etc) if it is not "temporary"
(in use 90 days). The language refers to substituting relocatable
power taps for building wiring. Fortunately building inspectors don't
usually get involved after permits are closed but a fire marshal/life
safety officer would tag all of that stuff in an office if he is doing
his job

+1

--
Tekkie