"John Willis" wrote in message
...
Shape and insert small bits of wood into the holes. Put wood glue on
them first. They will hold. For the small holes from cabinet door
hinge screws I sometimes just use toothpicks. The thick portion. Dab a
little wood glue on it, put it into the hole, install the hinge. It
will hold quite well.

So, no wood putty at all? Just fill the hole with wood glue and 5,6 pieces
of toothpicks? I thought wood glue shrinks more than putty?

A good clean sanding job, a stain touch up, sanding sealer, a very
light sanding, a good clean up, and three coats of a high quality
varnish, sanding between each coat, is easier and does indeed take
less time and effort. But you'll notice that this too takes a fair
amount of elbow grease as well???

John... I wasn't sure if I needed sanding sealer, I thought that is only
for bare wood. Anyways, while looking it up, I find this article from
Lowes -
(http://www.easy2.com/cm/lowe/ht_inde...ge_id=35690552). It tells you
to apply the sealer before staining which doesn't make sense to me. If the
purpose of the sealer is to prevent the stain from bleeding into the
topcoat, then shouldn't you apply the block (in this case the sealer)
inbetween the stain and the topcoat (in this case the varnish); just like
the order you described. Confused???

In addition, I think I'll apply wood conditioner. I was surprise to find a
water-based wood conditioner for water based paint from MinWax
(http://www.minwax.org/Products/woodp...r-prestain.cfm). How
interesting that a water-based product (which usually raises grains) could
prevent grain raising.

thx,
-wen