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River Tramp
 
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Default Adding CH to new loft - advice please

The current requirement is for sound insulation to a loft conversion floor
means mineral wool is required, and as the floor needs to be 30min FR, the
wool will often need to be laid on chicken wire drapped over the joists. The
boarding & wool has to be taken eaves to eaves (ie the void areas also need
it).

RT




wrote in message
...
In article ,
Bob Mannix wrote:
....the bedroom is very cold - the
old insulation in the original ceiling seems to be stopping any heat

from
the rest of the house from making its way upstairs.

The old insulation should have been removed. This would make the loft

bedroom
much warmer, probably enough to need only very minimal heating, if

any.
Is it
impossible to remove it now? This seems like a lot less work than all

the
heating extensions you are planning.

It would be tricky as it is no longer possible to lift the floorboards.
However with a bit of stiff wire and some patience it may be possible

to
fish it out from the eaves.


Even if there were no insulation there in the first place, the

requirements
for 30 minute fire protection between the old house and the new loft
conversion would require new mineral fibre insulation beneath the floor

of
the loft conversion, nailed to the joists. To remove it would be highly
irresponsible.


Interesting. The plans state various FR requirements including the
floor-boards, insulation, doors etc. They were approved and the BCO made
several visits including before the floor-boards went down. The insulation
between the 1st floor ceiling and the 2nd floor boards in the original
50mm insulation that went in years ago - no special mineral fibre.

The new room requires its own heating. To extend the CH will
almost certainly require repositioning the header tank. The common

approach

To where? It's already in the apex of the roof, ie in the ceiling of the
2nd floor. As it's there already I am thinking of piping in new CH as I
believe in the long run ...

is to fit an electric wall heater with integral timer and thermostat. The
loft room should be well insulated and will heat up quickly.


... it will be cheaper than electrics (especially if I can do it myself
for the cost of the materials + my time and a few crates of beers for my
more handy friend with all the tools). The loft bedroom is large (5m x 3m
+ 1.5m x 2m = 18m2) and so is the bathroom (5m x 1.8m).

One thing I was considering instead of CH is to install an air conditioner
with integral heat pump. Apparently the heat exchangers are very
efficient, and as the loft gets very hot in summer air-con will be a
nice-to-have anyway.

Zane.