"Tim+" wrote in message
...
They?re from the 70s. They don?t feel or look like they?re in danger of
disintegrating imminently. I think they?re mostly Kodachrome.

You should find that they will splice with splicing solution. I'd be
cautious about using superglue.

Is the splicer one which makes a zig-zag cut, separates the two ends of the
film to allow you to apply solvent to each cut end, and then moves them
together so they *butt up* to each other and the softened acetate can weld
together? As opposed to one which scrapes the base so it is thinner and then
*overlaps* the ends by a frame?


When you play the films for the first time, keep your hand on the
projector's off switch, ready to switch off if the film doesn't feed
properly. There are two feed sprockets, up just upstream of the gate and the
lens, and one a long way downstream, beyond the sound head (if the projector
has sound). Film can bunch up in the area between the input sprocket and the
gate, if the little claw in the gate which advances the film frame by frame
jumps out of the sprocket. Also the loop that you need to leave between the
gate and the sound head can be dragged tight (I'm never sure how that
happens!), which causes the picture to jump vertically.

In this image https://i.postimg.cc/ZR5jZ84n/Eumig.jpg

1 = feed sprocket and spring-loaded "loop-creator"

2 = gate

3 = loop before sound head

4 = take-up sprocket

When you are feeding a new film, you hook the film onto the feed sprocket,
press the spring-loaded "loop-creator" (I can't think of a better name for
it!) and run the projector for a couple of seconds to feed the film through
the gate and towards the sound head. Stop the projector and release the
loop-creator. Thread the film through the horizontal slot of the sound head,
leaving a gap of a few mm rather than pulling it tight - there is a little
dashed line on the case which shows roughly where the film should sit. Hook
the film onto the take-up sprocket and then onto the take-up spool. You
*should( now be good to go.